Probiotics for Pets

Probiotics are beneficial bacteria, the “good” or “friendly” bacteria that populate the entire digestive tract and play an important role in digestion, nutrient assimilation and immune system function. Unfortunately, many people have been lead to believe that all bacteria are harmful, but the reality is that we live in symbiosis with beneficial bacteria throughout our environment, and arguably the most important being our friendly intestinal bacteria. The average animal, depending on size, can have up to four pounds of bacteria in his body with the majority residing in the digestive tract. Your pet would become very ill or die without the right intestinal bacteria, and unfortunately this actually happens more often than most people realize. Many holistic veterinarians believe that imbalances in intestinal bacteria are a major factor in many of the chronic disorders that we see in our animals today. Our experience with animals leads us to believe this is very true! I. Why are probiotics referred to as “friendly” bacteria? Probiotics are referred to as “friendly” because they are a benefit to the body in many important ways, as opposed to pathogenic or “unfriendly” bacteria that can cause illness. II. What are some of the roles probiotics play in the body? 1). Help the digestive tract function properly by producing enzymes that aid digestion and the assimilation of nutrients. 2). Manufacture B vitamins. 3). Help lower cholesterol. 4). Keep levels of pathogenic bacteria (E. coli, Salmonella and Helicobacter pylori) and pathogenic fungi (Candida albicans) in check by competing for available space and nutrients. In addition, beneficial bacteria produce antibiotic like substances and acidify the intestinal tract by producing lactic acid, both of which inhibit harmful bacteria growth and the toxins they produce. 5). Protect against tooth decay and gum inflammation. 6). Help to maintain a healthy mucous lining (mucosa) in the intestinal tract. This assists in the prevention of bacteria, food particles and toxins from entering the blood stream. The results of a damaged mucosa are often referred to as ‘Leaky Gut Syndrome” which contributes to allergy like symptoms, skin conditions, systemic infections, arthritis and other disease processes. 7). Maintain or increase immune system health. Since 70% of the immune system in animals is found in the gastrointestinal tract, a healthy mucosal lining populated by beneficial bacteria is very important to preventing and fighting infection. In addition, beneficial bacteria are also found in the respiratory system where they help guard the body against invasion by harmful germs. 8). Aid in the absorption of magnesium that is used for hundreds of different functions throughout the body. A magnesium deficiency can result in asthma and migraines and have other dramatic impacts on a person's health. 9). Synthesize vitamin K that is needed to clot the blood and keep bones strong. 10). Manufacture the milk digesting enzyme lactase that is needed to digest most dairy products. III. What are some symptoms of the lack of proper amounts of probiotics? An imbalance between friendly and unfriendly bacteria in the body plays a role in many of the chronic disorders we see today. Symptoms can include bad breath, diarrhea, constipation, excessive gas, foul smelling stool, allergies, autoimmune disease, skin conditions; poor vitamin K synthesis which can cause blood clotting problems and low bone density; magnesium deficiencies which can lead to asthma, migraines, fibromyalgia, anxiety, depression, urinary incontinence and other related disorders; B vitamin deficiencies which can lead to lowered blood pressure, abnormal gait, tingling of nerves, lowered uric acid levels and lowered hydrochloric acid levels which can lead to malabsorption issues; irritable bowel syndrome, celiac disease, dairy intolerance and the overgrowth of harmful bacteria which can lead to frequent vaginal, yeast, bladder and sinus infections. IV. What can reduce levels of probiotics in the body? Anything that places stress on the body can reduce levels of friendly bacteria. Common causes include poor diet, antibiotics, steroids, NSAIDs, surgery, medications, acute and chronic diarrhea, chlorinated water, artificial ingredients and preservatives in foods, toxins in food and the environment and stress. V. Who should supplement with probiotics? Everyone should supplement with probiotics on a continuous basis to ensure that a healthy, viable population of beneficial bacteria are always present in the intestinal tract. Probiotics would be specifically recommended in situations where there are symptoms of imbalance or in which healthy bacterial populations may be adversely affected making your animal susceptible to disease, such as with antibiotic or steroid use. Supplementing with probiotics is easy and safe and a great insurance policy because not only do friendly bacteria decrease naturally in the body as we age, but we and our animals come in contact with so many things in everyday life that reduce healthy intestinal flora. VI. Is it okay to supplement with one type of probiotic? No, supplementing with one type of probiotic can lead to imbalances within the body. Since different bacteria have different actions an overbalance of one type is not desirable. It is best to take a probiotic supplement with a variety of different species of beneficial bacteria. VII. When during the day should probiotics be provided? It is thought that certain species of beneficial bacteria flourish in the morning and some at night, so, in a perfect world, splitting daily supplementation into two equal dosages would seem to make the most sense. Also, some species of beneficial bacteria are susceptible to strong stomach acid, so supplementing away from meals, when stomach acid is weakest, may be helpful as well. Though, in recent years probiotic science has come a long way so current probiotic cultures are much more resilient to stomach acid. For this reason, and a matter of convenience, mixing probiotics in with you dog or cat's food is fine. In addition, probiotic formulas, like that found in our Digestive Enzyme and Probiotics or our Daily Multi Plus, provide additional quantities of probiotics to make up for any potential loss during that may occur during digestion. VIII. Is yogurt good enough? Unfortunately yogurt, especially commercial supermarket brands, is not a good source of beneficial bacteria. Many yogurt products do not contain living organisms and if they do, only in small amounts and a narrow range of beneficial organisms. In addition, they acidify over time killing bacteria so there is very little healthy bacterial content when they get to you. Natural, organic yogurt can be better, but using a probiotic supplement containing billions of viable healthy bacteria is preferable. IX. What about foods or other products marketed as containing probiotics? Unfortunately this is more marketing, maybe with good intentions, than benefit for your animal. Pasteurization is a process in which a product is heated to 145 degrees or higher (depending on the pasteurization process) to kill or inhibit the growth of bacteria. Pet foods are heated to a much higher degree during their processing effectively killing all bacteria, good and bad. To make up for this loss of friendly bacteria manufacturers add some in after processing, but because of exposure to oxygen and room temperature or higher during storage and delivery of the foods the potency of the probiotics is basically destroyed. This is kind of similar to the addition of fish oils to processed pet foods; heat and oxygen oxidize the healthy oils but even worse, carcinogenic compounds are also formed! Just for your information – the salmonella poisoning that has occurred from processed pet food is because of recontamination after processing. Remember (see ‘roles probiotics play in the body’ above) that one of the roles of beneficial bacteria is to keep the growth of undesirable bacteria in check. So, when pet food is heated effectively killing all bacteria and is recontaminated afterward with pathogenic bacteria, these potentially harmful bacteria thrive unchecked and can reach populations that can sicken and kill an animal! So much for being concerned with raw food where thriving populations of beneficial bacteria keep pathogenic bacteria levels in check! X. What are some examples of beneficial bacteria? Examples of beneficial bacteria include various species of Lactobacillus, Acidophilus, Bacillus, Streptococcus, Enterococcus, Bifidobacterium and even beneficial yeast like Saccharomyces cerevisiae. XI. What is the suggested dosage of probiotics? Because probiotics are not drugs, but living organisms, precise dosages are not so important. A typical daily dosage for a 150lb person (get the percentage of the adult dose by dividing your animal’s weight by 150) is 3-5 billion live organisms. Actual live count varies dramatically so make sure you purchase a reputable brand from a responsible retailer! XII. Should probiotics be refrigerated? Yes, when you get the probiotic supplement home place it in the refrigerator to maintain the viability of the beneficial bacteria. Products that contain bacteria in a theoretically stabilized form and are marketed as not having to be refrigerated will have a longer viability if refrigerated when you get them home, especially after they are opened. In addition to heat, bacteria are also sensitive to oxygen and moisture so close the container quickly when you are done and make sure your hands are dry when handling. XIII. How should a probiotic supplement be provided? The preferable way to provide a probiotic supplement is in powder form. The reason for this is that if you use a tablet or capsule you are restricting benefits to the bowels (the small and large intestines). By supplementing with a powder you will be benefiting the entire digestive tract from the mouth to the anus. Capsules may of course be opened and the contents emptied onto your animal’s food or placed into a small glass of water for human consumption. XIV. Why do probiotics sometimes cause nausea or vomiting? When the health of an animal has been compromised for some time, things can start out worse before they get better. This process is sometimes referred to as “cleansing” or a “healing crisis”. Experiencing digestive upset with probiotic use is most likely caused by the feeding of poor quality commercial pet food that is hard to break down and digest. Consequently, it moves slowly through the intestines allowing some fecal plaque to adhere to your dog’s intestinal walls. Once it gets a toehold, it thickens over time. Even fairly young animals can experience some blockage as a result of this build up. Probiotics will slowly begin to dissolve the fecal matter, and during this clearing/cleansing process, pathogens and microbes that were covered up with layers of fecal matter will be exposed and can cause episodes of diarrhea or vomiting. Depending on the buildup, it may take a few months before it is completely removed. To help restore your animal’s health and happiness we suggest a healthier, more digestible diet and reducing the dosage of probiotics to a level tolerated by your animal, building back up gradually as your animal begins to feel better. Also, a good fiber supplement with psyllium seed will help clear away the debris in your animal’s intestinal tract. XV. Should a probiotic supplement be provided when using antibiotics? Of course! Antibiotics kill friendly bacteria along with pathogenic bacteria. The colonies of beneficial bacteria must be maintained or populations of undesirable bacteria will flourish once the antibiotics are discontinued. This can result in the epidemic symptoms we see today ranging from itchy skin conditions to frequent infections to digestive problems as well as a population explosion of normally benign candida yeast that live throughout the body. When using antibiotics, supplement with probiotics at least two hours after the treatment and when the antibiotic treatment is complete double or triple the probiotic dosage for 7-10 days. Shop For Probiotics for Dogs and Cats

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Top 10 Tips for Using Probiotics Supplements for Dogs and Cats

1). Provide a probiotic in powder or liquid form if possible The reason for this is that if you use a tablet or capsule you are generally restricting benefits to the deeper parts of the GI tract (the small and large intestines). By supplementing with a powder or liquid you will be benefiting the entire digestive tract from the mouth to the anus. Capsules may of course be opened and the contents emptied onto your animal’s food or placed into a small glass of water for human consumption. 2). Provide a probiotic supplement with meals This is because high levels of stomach acid can quickly kill many strains of bacteria and food can act as a stomach acid buffer. When you eat, stomach pH rises (becoming less acidic), which helps fragile live cultures survive the harsh digestive tract. Research suggests that pairing probiotics with meals containing fats helps protect the microbes as they move into the small and large intestines. An exception to this rule is if you wish the probiotics to get into the digestive tract quickly and avoid competition with food and digestion - perhaps in cases where there is damage to the digestive tract lining. In this case, taking probiotics on an empty stomach can be best first thing in the morning or right before bed. 3). Probiotic supplements should be refrigerated (with an exception) Many products are now being marketed as shelf-stable. They are freeze-dried and with such low levels of moisture are placed in a dormant stage. However, there will be more viability of the beneficial bacteria if they are refrigerated. For probiotics being shipped to you, refrigerate the supplement as soon as you receive your package. Many probiotics, like the supplements we provide for dogs and cats, are formulated with extra bacteria taking any potential loss during storage or shipping into account. In addition to heat, bacteria are also sensitive to oxygen and moisture so close the container quickly when you are done and make sure your hands and utensils are dry when handling. The exception to this rule is for spore bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis or Bacillus coagulans that when facing harsh condition - such as a lack of food, excessive heat, or dryness - forms a tough, dormant external structure called an endospore. Once conditions become favorable again, such as in the digestive tract, the spore germinates and turns back into a regular, active probiotic bacteria. 4). The quality of the product is more important than dosage Since probiotics are living organisms, not drugs, precise dosages are not as important. It also varies by individual because certain dogs and cats are subjected to different environmental toxins and fed diverse pet foods. A typical daily dosage for a 50lb dog is 1 billion or so live organisms. However, the number of viable organisms varies greatly by product, so this is where quality really counts. You could have a product that promotes 2 billion live organisms compared to another that offers only 1 billion. Yet, the one with the smaller probiotic count on the package may actually have more viable, or living, organisms that enter your pet’s digestive tract. 5. Provide your dog or cat with probiotics when using antibiotics or steroids This is actually the time when your pet needs a probiotic supplement the most. Antibiotics and steroids destroy the mucous lining of the gut and with it the abundance of beneficial flora. Antibiotics don’t discriminate between good and bad microorganisms, and unfortunately opportunistic organisms, like Candida albicans, will flourish once the antibiotics are discontinued. When using antibiotics, supplement your dog or cat with probiotics at least two hours after the treatment (right before bed is a great time) and when the antibiotic treatment is complete double or triple the probiotic dosage for 7-10 days. 6). When probiotics are first used they can cause discomfort Experiencing digestive upset with probiotic use is most likely caused by the feeding of poor quality commercial pet food that is hard to break down and digest. Consequently, it moves slowly through the intestines allowing some fecal plaque to adhere to your pet’s intestinal walls. Once it gets a toehold, it thickens over time. Even fairly young animals can experience some blockage as a result of this build up. Probiotics will slowly begin to dissolve the fecal matter, and during this clearing/cleansing process, pathogens and microbes that were covered up with layers of fecal matter will be exposed and can cause episodes of diarrhea or vomiting. Depending on the buildup, it may take a few months before it is completely removed. To help restore your animal’s health and happiness we suggest a healthier, more digestible diet and reducing the dosage of probiotics to a level tolerated by your animal, building back up gradually as your animal begins to feel better. Also, a good fiber supplement with psyllium seeds will help clear away the debris in your dog or cat’s intestinal tract. 7). Supplement with numerous strains of beneficial bacteria Many commercial brands of probiotics contain one or two strains of bacteria. That is not optimal because different microorganisms bring different benefits to the table and over supplementing with one type can lead to imbalances in the body. The most common strains found in probiotic supplements are Lactobacillus acidophilus and Bifidobacterium bifidum, and while they may supply a good match for what is found in your pet’s GI tract, there are many other probiotic species that would be beneficial. 8). Not only antibiotics kill beneficial flora Anything that places stress on the body can reduce levels of friendly bacteria. Common culprits include a diet with low-quality ingredients, NSAIDs, surgery, various medications, acute and chronic diarrhea, chlorinated water, artificial ingredients and preservatives in food, toxins in food and the environment, and stress. What can you do? Feed a high, quality, whole food diet (preferably raw). Filter your pet’s water, that chlorine was put in there to kill microorganisms, and unfortunately, even well water can be contaminated. Avoid the use of pharmaceutical drugs whenever possible. Much of what a vet prescribes antibiotics for can be accomplished with immune system support using herbs such as echinacea or olive leaf and wonderful antimicrobials like a silver hydrosol. 9). Those symptoms your dog or cat has can often be linked to dysbiosis Dysbiosis is an imbalance between the friendly and unfriendly bacteria in the GI tract and occurs when something damages the beneficial flora allowing opportunistic bacteria to gain a foothold. This imbalance where undesirable bacteria begin to flourish plays a role in many of the chronic disorders we see today. Symptoms in your dog or cat can include bad breath, diarrhea, constipation, excessive gas, foul smelling stool, allergies, autoimmune disease, skin conditions; poor vitamin K synthesis which can cause blood clotting problems and low bone density; magnesium deficiencies which can lead to asthma, migraines, fibromyalgia, anxiety, depression, urinary incontinence and other related disorders; B vitamin deficiencies which can lead to lowered blood pressure, abnormal gait, lowered uric acid levels and lowered hydrochloric acid levels which can lead to malabsorption issues; irritable bowel syndrome, celiac disease, dairy intolerance and frequent vaginal, yeast, bladder and sinus infections. 10). Fermented foods are a great source or probiotic cultures Functional foods like kefir, yogurt and sauerkraut can do a world of good for your dog or cat. Unfortunately, what is found in the supermarket are not real examples of these products. Kefir is a food derived from raw goat or cows milk and is rich in beneficial bacteria and yeasts (some yeasts are good!) and is generally made at home using kefir grains. Yogurt is another superfood derived from milk, however, most of the products found in the supermarket don’t resemble the real thing. Most yogurt nowadays is processed and then freeze dried cultures are added before packaging. Shelf life and taste is the real important thing here, so sugars predominate and the amount and variety of probiotic cultures provides little benefit. Sauerkraut can be a functional food powerhouse, however, the mass produced varieties are made with vinegar, again for shelf life and ease or manufacture, so they provide little of the health benefit real fermented cabbage and other vegetables provide. The only option, really, is to make these products at home, which can be fun if you have the time, or to use a high-quality probiotics supplement for your dogs and cats. 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Top 10 Tips for Using Herbs for Dogs and Cats

1). Use herbs in their whole form Providing your dog or cat with an herbal remedy formulated from the whole herb, or the most commonly used portion of the medicinal plant, is almost always preferable to standardized extracts. When using herbs in this manner your pet not only gets the active constituent, or the phytochemical thought to have the most therapeutic value, e.g., silymarin in milk thistle, but they also receive the benefits of supporting constituents in the herb that can act as adjuncts, moderate potential side-effects and contain nutritious vitamins and minerals. 2). Purchase from a trusted retailer/manufacturer Along with the popularity of herbal remedies for dogs and cats comes the rise in the number of unscrupulous manufacturers. The potency and effectiveness of a specific herbal remedy is in direct correlation to its freshness and standards of manufacture. There are many remedies out there that are formulated with herbs that are past their useful life, along with remedies that contain little of what is indicated on the ingredient panel. The only thing a consumer can do is place trust in the retailer or manufacturer from which they purchase the herbs for their pets. A pet parent can help develop trust by asking questions about why a business carries a particular line of herbal remedies, or, if a manufacturer, what attention do they put into their ingredients and the manufacturing process, and make sure they receive a knowledgeable answer; if not, move on because you most likely will waste time and money. 3). Herbs alone are not a panacea Herbal remedies can be very powerful and provide help with many acute and chronic illnesses. However, they are not miracle workers. Using herbs for your pets must be viewed in a holistic fashion. This means that herbal remedies should be used as part of a wellness protocol that takes your entire animal into account. Your pet’s diet should be biologically appropriate, preferably raw, but at the very least containing foods as close to their natural, whole food form as possible. If you feed a kibble or canned diet you should feed an enzyme formula to help your dog or cat digest the gluten, starches and other processed ingredients found in dry and canned foods. A probiotic formula is highly recommended because if your pet is like many others, he has had his fair share of antibiotics and his beneficial intestinal flora has suffered as a result. Your dog or cat should also get daily exercise to help with lymphatic flow and the maintenance of lean muscle tissue and also to prevent boredom and lethargy. 4). Understand the medicine you are using The use of herbs can have very potent beneficial effects on your dogs and cats, and while not being drugs, they do form the basis of many of our pharmaceuticals and can have similar undesirable side-effects. For instance, many of us have heard of milk thistle and its useful effect on the liver; it can be detoxifying and hepatoprotective. However, there is also the belief that its over-use on a healthy liver can actually reduce liver function. What about licorice? It can be a very effective anti-inflammatory due to the constituent glycyrrhizin. However, this very beneficial phytochemical found in licorice, if abused, can also produce side effects similar to hydrocortisone and lead to hypertension and fluid retention. What to do? Find a retailer with an herbalist on staff, because that will be a clue that this is a company more dedicated than others to natural healing. In addition, purchase a book from a well-respected author and get on your way to becoming a knowledgeable user of herbal remedies for your dog or cat. 5). Select the philosophy of herbal medicine that suits you There are three principle philosophies of herbal medicine: Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), Ayurvedic Medicine and Western Herbalism. Traditional Chinese Medicine focuses on the use of herbal combinations or formulas to strengthen and support organ system function. Ayurvedic Medicine originated in India and the Middle East and involves a very holistic approach of using herbs, eating certain types of food and modalities like massage and yoga that nurture the mind, body and spirit. Both of these approaches are very holistic in nature and can be quite complicated for the average person. Western Herbalism is the youngest of the three and draws from herbal traditions of Europe and the Americas. It relies on the synergistic and curative properties of plants to maintain health and rebalance and tonify the body. Even though it is best to use Western Herbalism in a holistic fashion, which involves diet, supplementation and exercise, it is much easier to grasp and most of the herbs are available in organic form right here in the USA. So, out of the three philosophies, Western Herbalism is better suited for the average do-it-yourself pet parent. 6). Choose the best type of herbal formula for your pet Herbs are available for internal use in a variety of forms such as powders, capsules, tablets and tinctures. In addition, herbs can be brewed into teas or infusions for administration both orally and topically. Herbs in powdered form are easy to add to food and provide all the nutrients the herbs have to offer in their natural form. While easy to administer, some animals can be sensitive to their taste or smell, so if this is the case with your dog or cat, using capsules or tablets can be a good alternative. Just be aware that there are typically synthetic ingredients added to capsules and tablets that assist with the manufacturing process. A tincture is an herbal remedy derived by placing herbs in an alcohol or glycerin (called a glycerite) solvent to break down the plant material and release the active constituents into the liquid. An advantage here is that the body quickly and easily utilizes the concentrated active constituents of the herb, making them useful for both acute and chronic illness. Alcohol is generally considered to be the best solvent, meaning that more of the beneficial properties of the herb are removed, but glycerin is a good alternative and tastes better so it is easier to get into an animal and is preferred for dogs, cats and birds as well as those animals sensitive to alcohol or who suffer with liver or kidney disease. 7). Understand how to use herbs properly It is generally recommended to begin with only one herbal remedy at a time when possible. This is because you want to be able to witness any positive effects or signs of intolerance due to its use. It is much more effective to dose your companion with herbs two or three times per day, rather that in one large dose, to allow the herbs to remain and build up in the system. If your companion is currently on any conventional medications you should be aware of any possible contraindications. To do this check with a person educated in herbal medicine, like a Master Herbalist or a knowledgeable holistic veterinarian familiar with herbs. 8). What to do with signs of intolerance Depending on an individual animal’s response, suggested dosages may need to be adjusted. If signs of intolerance are seen, such as nausea, vomiting or diarrhea the remedy should be discontinued for a couple of days. After this pause, you may try again with 1/2 the original dosage to see if a lower dose may be tolerated. The opposite may also be true, where an animal is not responding to the recommended dosage, and in this case a VERY gradual increase in 10% increments up to 50% above the suggested dosage may be tried to see if any improvements are seen. The guidance of a good person/company with knowledge of the herbs being used may be helpful at this time. 9). Duration of use of the herbal therapy The duration of an herbal therapy varies by animal and in relation to the imbalance or symptoms you are confronting. Seasonal herbal cleanses generally last two weeks, the use of herbs to relieve allergy symptoms can run from two weeks before, and then throughout, the allergy season and an herbal therapy used to support a thyroid condition may have to be used over the course of an animal’s lifetime. When you are using herbs medicinally for an extended period of time, it is recommended that you take breaks in the schedule of herbal treatment. This is done to make sure an animal’s body does not develop a tolerance to the herbal remedy and to give the body a chance to eliminate any excesses that could produce undesirable symptoms over time. One recommended course of action is to take two days off from the herbal therapy every week - five days on, two days off. Another is to take one day off per week, one week off every six weeks and one month off every six months. After a couple of weeks or so on the maximum dosage, if no results are seen, it may be time to try another herb or holistic remedy or consult with a herbal specialist. 10. Practice patience We are all eager to see immediate results, but that is not how herbal remedies work. It takes time for herbs to build up in the system, and it may take several days or longer to see the effectiveness of a particular remedy. The difference between a successful herbal therapy and, for example, resorting to a steroid treatment, often amounts to a day or two of patient waiting. The severity of the condition and overall health of the animal will also play a role. However, the use of the correct herbal remedy can be very rewarding for your pet, allowing your dog or cat to avoid many of the potential drawbacks of pharmaceutical drugs. After all, you can always resort to medication as a last resort after more holistic and natural options have been failed to produce the desired results. Shop for Herbal Remedies for Dogs and Cats

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Top 10 Tips to Help You with Natural Flea and Tick Control

1). Select truly natural products Unfortunately, there are manufacturers that utilize popular terms, like “natural”, in order to lure you to their products; after all that is the purpose of marketing. It is important that consumers read labels because what is marketed as natural may not be entirely that when you read the ingredient panel. If you don’t know what an ingredient is do a quick internet search to see what comes up. Purchasing from a trusted retailer that focuses on natural products can make selecting the best product much easier. 2). Avoid gimmicky products As the market for natural products grows, so does the number of those looking to grab their share. Look at herbal flea collars, or any flea collar for that matter. Do you think an odor located at the front of a dog or cat is going to keep a flea off the tail area? In addition, a dog’s sense of smell is estimated to be 1000 times or more that of a human. The strong odor from a flea collar located just under a dog’s nose 24 hours a day must be maddening! 3). Treat the outside of your pet Apply natural and organic powders or sprays to help repel fleas and ticks. Sprays with essential oils will help repel insects for walks in the woods or during playtime at the dog park, while powders with ingredients such as diatom flour will help desiccate and kill fleas and ticks. Products containing concentrated essential oils should not be used on cats. 4). Fortify the inside of your pet Parasites, like fleas, will prey on weaker hosts. So, it can be very helpful to strengthen your pet’s resistance to them by using natural supplements with ingredients that cleanse the blood, support circulation, improve skin structure and reduce allergic response. You can also effectively make your dog or cat less "tasty" by using ingredients like garlic in moderation during flea and tick season. 5). Don’t over-shampoo Generally speaking, all-natural flea shampoos are much more gentle than their commercial counterparts. However, over-doing anything can be counter productive. Too much shampooing can damage the skin’s delicate balance making it more sensitive to things like flea bites that can result in a dermatitis skin condition with the associated itching and scrathing. 6). Practice good housekeeping Many pet parents focus on treating their animals to eliminate fleas. However, 80% of a flea’s lifespan and 95% of a flea population exists in your animal’s environment. A better option is to vacuum regularly and periodically wash pet beds and blankets. Also, brush natural flea powders into carpets and other areas where fleas could be hiding. Treating your outdoor property with beneficial nematodes that hunt and kill flea larvae is also a very effective natural control and much safer for your family than lawn pesticide applications. 7). Fortify your pet’s immune system While what we talked about in #4 above can help here as well, you can go a step further. Herbs such as Echinacea (E. purpurea or E. angustifolia) boost white blood cell activity and can help eliminate pathogens that enter the body due to external parasites (you can use it prophylactically in a regimen of 5 days on and 2 days off during flea and tick season). In addition, a product like Sovereign Silver, which is a colloidal silver hydrosol, can offer safe immune system support as a preventative (such as after a tick bite) and for acute or chronic infections. 8). Don’t get discouraged Even when we do everything right, our pet can still get the occasional flea and tick. Depending on where you live this can be a constant battle. However, if you follow the suggestions offered here your problems should be eliminated, or at the very least greatly reduced, safely and fairly easily. For animals whose resistance to external parasites has been diminished due to a poor diet or health concern, getting them built back up and strengthened may take a little time, but stick with it. Avoiding the long-term consequences of the use of chemicals to your family’s health (it is not just your pet that comes into contact with these toxins) is worth the effort! 9). Don’t be susceptible to fear mongering Many veterinarians make up to 40% or more of their income from the sale of products like topical flea and tick pesticides. If they stopped selling these products many would go out of business. Perhaps there are those vets that actually believe that the use of these products out-ways the dangers of not using them, or they really believe that natural products are ineffective. Whatever the case is, you may get a strong sales pitch for these types of products at your local vet’s office. Your vet may tell you that your pet may contract Lyme Disease or some other horrible illness if you don’t apply that topical pesticide product. But the truth is that a flea or tick can survive on your pet for 48 hours or more before the topical pesticide kills them; that leaves plenty of opportunity for a flea or tick to bite during this period of time. In addition, more than one holistic vet has mentioned that they see no difference in the number of animals that contract a parasite related infection between those that have been treated with a topical pesticide product and those that haven’t. We feel it is best to follow the guidelines that have been outlined here and avoid any chemical usage whether it is on your pet or around your home. 10). Improve your pet’s diet Generally, when it comes to flea and tick control, more often than not, pet parents think about applying something to their animal’s fur like a spot-on product, flea dip or shampoo. They also sometimes consider a “quick fix” such as garlic powder to make their animal less tasteful to biting insects. We talked a little bit about supplementation in #4 above, however, what is too often not considered, to the degree it should be, is diet. Feeding a biologically appropriate diet forms the foundation of your pet’s health and to accomplish this we recommend a raw food diet or a home-prepared diet formulated by a person knowledgeable in that area. At the very minimum the diet should be free of processed grains and fillers (it does not have to be whole-grain free) that are typically found in commercial kibble pet foods and can make your animal “sweet” and more attractive to fleas. Highly processed and heavily grain-based diets also promote inflammation and do not provide the immune system with all the nourishment it requires to protect your pet. Shop for Dog and Cat Natural Flea and Tick Control Treatment

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Safe Lawns for your Pets

Many dogs frequently play in the yard, walk on neighbors lawns or use the park. While they are outside, they may be exposed to the chemicals used to treat lawns. Approximately 67% of Americans treat their lawns to pesticides and herbicides. These chemicals can cause serious health problems not only in dogs, but also in people. Some of the problems that can be caused by lawn treatments are: reproductive and neurological damage, organ damage, and endocrine and immune system dysfunction. Illness caused by lawn chemicals can be prevented. Do not let dogs near lawns that have just been treated. The chemicals in lawn treatments will break down after time and from sunlight. If a dog has come in contact with these chemicals, immediately wash its paws and anything else that may have touched the chemicals. Another alternative is to use organic treatments instead of chemicals. Unlike many other illnesses, very few vets have studied the long term damage of lawn chemicals. The National Cancer Institute has discovered that rates of lymphoma to be twice as high in dogs whose owners use chemicals containing 2,4-D, a chemical found in most common lawn treatments, as opposed to owners who do not use 2,4-D. Long term exposure to chemical lawn treatments is not only harmful to dogs but to humans as well. Pesticide residue can be inhaled or absorbed through the skin. In humans, the symptoms from herbicide poisoning are very similar to flu symptoms. Like humans, herbicide poisoning in dogs resembles other diseases making it difficult to diagnose. If a dog is believed to have been poisoned by lawn treatments, blood chemistry tests can be ordered but are rarely used due to the high cost. Some Lawn Chemical Facts Approximately 67% of Americans treat their lawns with chemicals. Lawn chemicals can cause reproductive and neurological problems, organ damage, endocrine and immune system dysfunction, and are intoxicating carcinogens. When used correctly, there is very limit risk of becoming sick from lawn care chemicals. Few vets have studied the long term effects of lawn care chemicals. National Cancer Institute found rates of lymphoma to be twice as high in dogs whose owners used preparations that contained 2,4-D on their lawn as in dogs whose owners did not use the chemicals. 2,4-D is a common ingredient used in most commercial ‘weed and feed’ lawn treatments. Long-term exposure to even low doses of pesticide exposure can cause many health problems in people. Pesticide residues can be inhaled or absorbed through the skin and cause nervous system disturbances and interfere with organ function. Poisoning of these chemicals can cause symptoms similar to those of the flu, allergy, headaches, nausea, fever, breathing difficulties, and high blood pressure (in humans). Herbicide poisonings in animals can reflect that of other diseases and can be difficult to diagnose. Blood chemistry tests could be used to help diagnose dogs but are very costly so they are used infrequently. To avoid exposure to these chemicals, do not let dogs near fresh applications of these chemicals. Avoid grass that has been recently treated with chemicals. Wash your dog's paws after exposure to chemicals and anything else that may have become in contact with the chemicals. Try using organic and natural alternatives to keep pets and people healthy.

• Cats
• Dogs
• Health

Detoxification and Healing Crisis Information

Conventional pet care has created an overabundance of very sick animals. The procedure for undoing all that damage takes the body through a process of detoxification, sometimes referred to as a healing crisis, in which current problems may intensify and old problems may reemerge. But how do we know if the symptoms we are seeing are healthy and when they can present a greater risk? Symptoms related to healthy detoxification include: Skin irritation and/or eruptions Mild vomiting Mild diarrhea or soft stool Clear eye and nasal discharge Sour breath Body odor Waxy build up in ears Mild lethargy Mild fever Any symptoms related to problems your animal has previously experienced These symptoms all relate to the body’s attempt to push wastes, toxins and other causes of internal imbalance outward. The body does this in order to maintain, or reestablish, internal stability, also known as homeostasis. None of the above are serious cause for concern, however a competent holistic veterinarian should be consulted if your pet: Stops eating and drinking normally for more than 24hrs Runs a fever for more than 24 hours (normal canine and feline temperature range is 100.5 – 102.5 degrees) Has unusual symptoms not seen before Displays extreme lethargy Has liquid diarrhea for longer than 24 hours (soft stool is okay, and may take awhile to resolve) We usually prefer a cautious approach when creating a healing program for an animal. The more tenuous the health of the animal, the slower changes should be introduced. The reason for this is that an animal that is highly toxic, and whose state of health is very poor, can actually be overwhelmed by the sudden release of too many toxins into their blood stream, in effect being poisoned by their body’s own healing process. To prevent more severe and uncomfortable symptoms, begin with half doses and build up to the full dosage. Also, dosages can be backed down, or the animal rested for a few days from the remedy altogether, if more undesirable symptoms appear. As uncomfortable as it may be for the human caregiver, as long as your animal is displaying healthy symptoms of detoxification, it is important to maintain the course you have begun. It is at this time that your animal’s body is purging wastes and toxins from their system, and beginning the journey back towards internal balance and true health. If this process is interrupted with powerful pharmaceutical drugs, obvious symptoms may disappear, but the internal disease process will still exist and the chance for true healing will be lost.

• Cats
• Dogs
• Health

Natural Flea Control Solutions

The Concept of putting systemic pesticides on our companion animals under the guise of maintaining good health seems to us a crazy idea. Often these dangerous chemicals can make our animals very sick, with the related health concerns easily outweighing the marketing promises in our opinion. When you further understand that 80% of a flea's lifespan is spent, and 95% of a flea population exists, in your animal's environment, poisoning your animal may seem even crazier to you! When manufacturing and marketing these topical flea and tick pesticides, it is evident to us that the overall health and wellness of your animals did not enter into the decision making process at all. The major concerns of the manufacturers appears to be that one, the poisons used did kill fleas and two, they needed to make sure that most animals did not keel over dead immediately after application. Both these concerns have been successful as most of the poisons, at this time, do kill fleas and most animals do not die instantly. A majority of animals, though, do exhibit a wide range of adverse events within hours of being treated with an application of a flea pesticide product. In our store we see unwanted symptoms in animals that can be traced back to the use of a spot on flea product on a weekly basis. In other words, an animal was perfectly fine and within minutes to a couple of weeks after the application of a chemical flea and tick product the animal begins to experience adverse symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, tremors or lethargy. Often, these symptoms take on the form of chronic illness, such as skin imbalances, and are not associated with the use of the flea pesticide products. Even when acute, sudden onset symptoms are seen, veterinarians often pontificate as to the inducement of the unwelcome symptoms being caused by something else and unrelated to the recent use of a topical flea pesticide. In our conversation with Merial (makers of Frontline), we asked what was the longest clinical trial on a single group of dogs. The answer is 90 DAYS! This is a usual time frame for a trial, some companies' trials may be a little longer and some may be a little less. The important thing to note is NOBODY KNOWS THE LONG TERM EFFECT OF USING THESE CHEMICALS, NOT EVEN THE MANUFACTURERS! Keep this information in mind the next time someone assures you that these products are safe. There is no way for anyone to know that. The fact is their has been, and continues to be acute illness, chronic illness and even death in animals that has been reported after the use of these systemic pesticides. What You May Not Know About Flea and Tick Pesticides Fleas are beginning to show resistance by developing immunity to these products Ingredients in topical flea and tick products have been shown to damage the thyroid, cause neurological and reproductive disorders and skin irritations, harm the liver and accumulate in body fat. Nothing is known about their long-term use. Supposedly the neurotoxins in these products effects only insects, but they are converted in the body of mammals into neurotoxins and endocrine disruptors. We will see more and more genetic damage in our animals down the line. This means weaker and sicklier animals as generations progress. Most of the flea poisons marketed to consumers target the flea. Yet, the majority of a flea's lifespan is not even spent on your animal! Bug-bombs are not effective against flea eggs and larvae. Flea collars are particularly ineffective. Fleas simply move away from the collar to other parts of your animal! Flea pesticide toxins pass through our animals 80% intact and into our drinking water - don't forget, they are neurotoxins and endocrine disruptors! Flea Life Cycle Flea Facts Fleas and mammals have been around for thousands of years, so there must be some relationship if they have existed together for so long. The misleading, fear driven marketing of flea pesticide products has created a billion dollar industry perpetuated by the pharmaceutical industry and some veterinarians. Fleas prefer weaker, less healthy hosts and puppies and kittens with less developed immune systems. Fleas are highly adaptable and evidence is coming to light that shows fleas are becoming resistant to commercial flea chemicals. Fleas have a difficult time surviving in a clean environment. The most prevalent species of flea is the Cat Flea, which also use dogs as a host. Under average household conditions, cat fleas will complete their life cycle within 3 to 4 weeks. Eggs typically make up 50% of an infestation in the home and the majority of these wind up in the environment off of your animal. Humidity below 50% and over 92% kills flea eggs. Larvae are free moving, and survive by feeding on organic debris found in their environment and on adult flea feces, which is essential for successful development. The larval stage usually lasts 5 to 11 days, depending upon the availability of food and the climatic conditions, and will account for about 35% of an infestation in a home. Upon completion of development, the mature larva produces a silk-like cocoon in which it pupates. Pupae are unaffected by household chemical sprays and commonly make up 10% of the infestation in a home. Once the flea emerges from the cocoon it can survive for 1 to 3 weeks before requiring a blood meal. Adult fleas make up only about 5% of a population and can live for as long as four months. If you have been using systemic pesticides on your pet we urge you to stop and take a more common sense approach. As you can see by the brief description of the life cycle of a flea above, if you are applying flea poisons to your animal you are only targeting 5% of the fleas! Since fleas are parasites the key is to strengthen the host and use effective natural ways to control flea populations in and around your home. Natural Flea Control Strengthen the host!Fleas are parasites and prey on weak animals. Poor commercial pet foods create a weak and out-of-balance animal; the perfect host for a flea. Purchase the best food you can afford for your animals. A whole food, natural diet minus any hormones, pesticides, chemicals, artificial additives and synthetic vitamins. Many of these toxins are secreted through hair follicles exacerbating skin problems, including flea bite dermatitis. Maintain healthy digestion and waste elimination by providing your animal with digestive enzymes, prebiotics and probiotics. Support a healthy immune system with a quality multi-vitamin and the periodic use of detoxifying and nutritive herbs. Add some essential fatty acids, such as a quality fish oil supplement, to your animals diet to ensure your animal has healthy skin and coat. Try a natural supplement such as brewers yeast and garlic or a yeast-free product to boost your animal's natural defenses and make them less tasty to fleas. Good housekeeping is a must. Vacuum regularly and thoroughly, including sofas and your animal's sleeping areas, and clean carpets. Don't forget to get rid of the vacuum bag or add diatomaceous earth or borate powder to the bag. Remember what was mentioned above? The majority of a flea's lifespan is spent off of your animal and fleas can not exist in a clean environment. Wash dog and cat beds as well as blankets and furniture that your pets sleep on. Inside you can use natural flea treatment powders that can be brushed into carpets, under furniture and pet beds or anywhere else you think fleas may be hiding and breeding. These powders work by either dehydrating flea larvae or by damaging a flea's exoskeleton and causing dessication. Because of fine particles that may irritate the lungs you should where a mask when applying diatomaceous earth or borate powder products. Treat your yard naturally by applying beneficial nematodes once or twice a year (depending on climate). These are beneficial insects that feed on insect larvae and will do a great job of keeping the outdoor flea population in check. Groom your companion By brushing your animal once or twice per week you will be removing dead hair, mats and tangles. All are prime hiding places for fleas. Purchase a flea comb. Pay close attention to places fleas typically congregate - belly area, under legs, and around the head and tail. When you find fleas, drown them in soapy water. Try natural, herbal shampoos and topical sprays. Bathe your pet with a nice healthy natural shampoo. Not too often as that may remove your animal's natural oils, drying out their skin. Avoid shampoos with chemical ingredients as these may also dry out and damage your animal's skin. You need to trust your retailer because manufacturers are not required to put all the ingredients that are in their shampoos on the label! At The Pet Health and Nutrition Center we check and have already caught one deceptive manufacturer! You don''t need to use toxic flea shampoos, just make sure you thoroughly wet and lather your pet. Leave the lather on for 10 to 15 minutes and then rinse really well making sure everything is washed down the drain. The shampoo breaks the surface tension so most if not all of the fleas will drown during bathing. We have some wonderful natural flea and tick sprays and powders that are effective. They can be applied directly onto your animal being careful of the eyes or placed on your hand or a towel or brush and then distributed through your animal's coat. Avoid the use of products containing essential oils on cats. Some, in small amounts may be okay, but unless you are sure which ones it is best to avoid them. Instead, use a hydrosol, sometimes called floral water, on your cat. That's it, no chemicals just a nice clean house and companion! Shop for Flea and Tick Control Products for Dogs and Cats  

• Cats
• Dogs
• Health

Heartworm Facts

This article on heartworm was reprinted with permission from Jan Rasmusen. Heartworms are Spread by Mosquitoes. Heartworm Meds are Spread by Fear. It’s getting warmer outside — time for sellers of heartworm medications to start scaring you to death. Television and print ads, which used to push meds only during warm summer months, now urge you to keep your dog on medication year round. The question is: why the change? Drs. David Knight and James Lok of the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, addressing recommendations for year round meds, warned: “The practice of some veterinarians to continuously prescribe monthly chemoprophylaxis exaggerates the actual risk of heartworm transmission in most parts of the country and unnecessarily increases the cost of protection to their clients.” So, is the change to year round meds all about money? Or is there more to this story? Heartworm “prevention” is a major health decision for pet parents and multi-billion dollar Big Business for drug companies, veterinarians, testing laboratories and on-line sellers of medication. When health intersects money, there’s a lot of room for conflict of interest. Only by understanding the business aspects and the truth about heartworm transmission can you make an informed decision about if, how and when to protect your dog with commercial products. While everyone agrees that heartworm infestations can be life-threatening, infestation is far from inevitable nor is it the immutable death sentence advertisers would have you believe. (Otherwise, all dogs and cats not on meds would die of infestation. But they don’t.) Every holistic vet I’ve consulted had concerns about the long-term safety of heartworm medications. Well-known vet, author and columnist Martin Goldstein wrote in his wonderful book The Nature of Animal Healing that he sees heartworms as less epidemic than the “disease-causing toxicity” of heartworm medicine. Dr. Jeff Levy, vet and homeopath, concluded “that it was not the heartworms that caused disease, but the other factors that damaged the dogs’ health to the point that they could no longer compensate for an otherwise tolerable parasite load.” Those factors include, “… being vaccinated yearly, eating commercial dog food, and getting suppressive drug treatment for other symptoms….” Heartworm meds do not, by the way, prevent heartworms. They are poisons that kill heartworm larvae (called microfilariae) contracted during the previous 30-45 days (and maybe longer due to what is call the Reach Back Effect). The heartworm industry authority, The American Heartworm Society (and their cat heartworm site), offers a wealth of information. Their website is a public service but also a marketing tool aimed at buyers and resellers of heartworm meds. Sponsors of this website are a Who’s Who of drug companies. Fort Dodge Animal Health (Wyeth), Merial and Pfizer are “Platinum Sponsors.” Bayer merits Silver. Novartis, Schering-Plough, Virbac and Eli Lilly get Bronze. Most of these companies have sales reps that regularly call on vets and show them how to sell you heartworm meds. With any purchase of any drug, we recommend you ask for information regarding possible adverse effects, the necessity for taking this drug and available alternatives. How Heartworms Infect Dogs: It’s Not Easy! Well, now that we’ve looked behind the scenes of the heartworm industry, let’s take a look at how the heartworms themselves (called Dirofilaria immitis) do business. Seven steps must be completed to give your dog a dangerous heartworm infestation: Step 1: To infect your dog, you need mosquitoes (so you need warm temperatures and standing water). More specifically, you need a hungry female mosquito of an appropriate species. Female mosquitoes act as airborne incubators for premature baby heartworms (called microfilariae). Without the proper mosquito, dogs can’t get heartworms. Period. That means dogs can’t “catch” heartworms from other dogs or mammals or from dog park lawns. Puppies can’t “catch” heartworms from their mothers and moms can’t pass heartworm immunity to pups. Step 2: Our hungry mosquito needs access to a dog already infected with sexually mature male and female heartworms that have produced babies. Step 3: The heartworm babies must be at the L1 stage of development (first stage larvae) when the mosquito bites the dog and withdraws blood. If they have matured into L2 or L3 then transmission won’t occur. Step 4: Ten to fourteen days later — if the temperature is right –the microfilariae mature inside the mosquito to the infective L3 stage then migrate to the mosquito’s mouth. (Yum!) Step 5: Madame mosquito transmits the L3’s to your dog’s skin with a bite. Then, if all conditions are right, the L3’s develop in the skin for three to four months (to the L5 stage) before making their way into your dog’s blood. But your dog still isn’t doomed. Step 6: Only if the dog’s immune system doesn’t rid the dog of these worms do the heartworms develop to adulthood. Step 7: It takes approximately six months for the surviving larvae to achieve maturity. At this point, the adult heartworms may produce babies if there are both males and females, but the kiddies will die unless a mosquito carrying L3’s intervenes. Otherwise, the adults will live several years then die. In summation, a particular species of mosquito must bite a dog infected with circulating L1 heartworm babies, must carry the babies to stage L3 and then must bite your dog . The adult worms and babies will eventually die off in the dog unless your dog is bitten again! Oh, and one more thing. Heartworms Development Requires Sustained Day & Night Weather Above 57˚F In Step 4 above I wrote that heartworm larvae develop “if the temperature is right.” The University of Pennsylvania Vet School (in a study funded by Merial) found: “Development in the mosquito is temperature dependent, requiring approximately two weeks of temperature at or above 27C (80F). Below a threshold temperature of 14C (57F), development cannot occur, and the cycle will be halted. As a result, transmission is limited to warm months, and duration of the transmission season varies geographically.” Knight and Lok agree: “In regions where average daily temperatures remain at or below about 62˚F (17˚ C) from late fall to early spring, insufficient heat accumulates to allow maturation of infective larvae in the intermediate host [the mosquito], precluding transmission of the parasite.” The Washington State University vet school reports that laboratory studies show that maturation of the worms requires “the equivalent of a steady 24-hour daily temperature in excess of 64°F (18°C) for approximately one month.” In other words, it has to be warm day AND night or development is retarded even if the average temperature is sufficiently warm. They add, that at 80° F, “10 to 14 days are required for development of microfilariae to the infective stage.” Jerold Theis, DVM, PhD, says, “If the mean monthly temperature is only a few degrees above 14 degrees centigrade [57 degrees F] it can take so many days for infective larvae to develop that the likelihood of the female mosquito living that long is remote.” I have never found this temperature-dependent information on a website promoting “preventatives,” but only in more scholarly works not easily accessed by the public. There is, as far as I can find, only one mention of temperature on the Heartworm Society canine heartworm page and none in the Merck/Merial Veterinary Manual site or Merial’s heartworm video — even though Merial funded the UPenn study. The Society also reports, “Factors affecting the level of risk of heartworm infection include the climate (temperature, humidity), the species of mosquitoes in the area, presence of mosquito breeding areas and presence of animal reservoirs (such as infected dogs or coyotes).” A Heartworm Society news release states: “By giving heartworm prevention every month, forgetful pet owners will have their pets protected when they need it most.” But doesn’t that also mean they get it when they need it least? Or need it not at all? Are you a “forgetful” owner? In this part of my heartworm series, we’ll discusses informed decision-making, and suggests ways, if you want them, to limit or eliminate heartworm drugs. I am a researcher and holistic health advocate, not a vet. Please learn the facts then discuss with your vet the appropriate course given your dog’s location, lifestyle, travel schedule, health, climate and the time of year. Expect an open-mind and respect from your vet, or find another vet. Just as with vaccination, “one size fits all” is outdated, profit-driven, lazy medicine. Take a look at the map above, courtesy of the Heartworm Society. Part 1 of this article demonstrated that transmission is heat and mosquito dependent. As expected, dark areas of the map, which show the most heartworm cases per clinic, are found in the hot, humid Southeastern US, especially the Atlantic and Gulf coasts and Mississippi Delta. Don’t let the map scare you. If published seasonally, map colors would pale significantly during cool months. Also remember that you’re seeing generalities, not specifics. A clinic near a rural pond will likely have many cases while an urban clinic 15 miles away may have a much lower incidence. Maps are general. Determine your own microclimate. Ask your vet how many cases of heartworm infection he/she treated in the past year. Also ask if he/she treats all positive cases, or just those with advanced infestation. If the vet doesn’t keep detailed records, that should tell you something. Conservative start/stop maps from heartworm researchers Drs. David Knight and James Lok (in “Seasonality of Heartworm Infections and Implications for Chemoprophylaxis”) show only two areas requiring year round heartworm meds: the southernmost areas of Florida and Texas. Houston, New Orleans and similar areas are shown requiring meds for 9 months. Other states range from 3-7 months. The Drs. wrote: “For nearly 80% of the states, the potential for heartworm transmission is limited to 6 months or less.” Does Year Round Medicating Bring Extra Protection? Applying suncreen at night is useless. So is taking heartworm medication when climate conditions prevent transmission. Only a small percentage of climes permit year-round transmission. Everyone else is unnecessarily subsidizing drug companies and “preventatives” sellers and, more importantly, exposing their dog to unnecessary risks. Two exceptions: 1) “Forgetful” and irresponsible pet parents who won’t begin the medication on time or build their dog’s natural immunity might want to medicate year round, although that means they have to remember to give meds every month. 2) If your dog contracts heartworms within a few years of beginning medication … and you can show you gave meds year round … and your dog had the required blood tests (2 or 3), you may benefit a little financially because drug companies will pay for dog’s treatment. Are Heartworm Preventatives Safe? You’ve seen those scary photos of worm-strangled hearts, right? Shouldn’t you give meds year round just in case? Isn’t safe better than sorry? But is that harmless little pill or yummie medical “brownie” really safe? No drug is completely free of risk and adverse reactions. I can find no long-term studies regarding cancer risks and organ damage for dogs receiving heartworm insecticides year round (or even for a few months). Such a study would be difficult to conduct and very expensive. Who would fund such a study — or publish any negative findings? One clue to the possibility of adverse reactions should be label warnings: call your doctor immediately if ingested; keep away from children; wash your hands immediately after use…. How can medication be good for dogs but so dangerous for you? Another question: is your dog healthy enough for these medications? The “Heartworm Prevention” page of the American Animal Hospital Association states: “Healthy kidneys and normal liver functions are essential in metabolizing most medications.” Many dogs, including my Jiggy, do not have healthy organ function. I wonder how many unhealthy animals are nevertheless on meds? Adverse Reactions to Heartworm Medications With any drug, study FDA and manufacturer information before medicating. These adverse reactions have been reported to the FDA by manufacturers. Terms you might not understand include ataxia (gross lack of coordination of muscle movements), pruritus (itchy dermatologic condition), urticaria (hives), mydriasis (excessive pupil dilation), and erythema (skin redness). Other terms should be self-explanatory. HEARTGARD® and TriHeartPlus® (ivermectin): Depression/lethargy, vomiting, anorexia, diarrhea, mydriasis, ataxia staggering, convulsions and hypersalivation. INTERCEPTOR® (milbemycin oxime) reports the above reactions plus weakness. Sentinel (milbemycin oxime) reports vomiting, depression/lethargy, pruritus, urticaria, diarrhea, anorexia, skin congestion, ataxia, convulsions, hypersalivation and weakness. REVOLUTION® (selamectin), Topical Parasiticide For Dogs and Cats: pre-approval reactions of vomiting, loose stool or diarrhea with or without blood, anorexia, lethargy, salivation, tachypnea, and muscle tremors. Post-approval experience included the above plus pruritis, urticaria, erythema, ataxia, fever, and rare reports of death and seizures in dogs. Proheart 6® : severe allergic reactions (anaphylaxis): facial swelling, itching, difficulty breathing, collapse; lethargy (sluggishness); not eating or losing interest in food; any change in activity level; seizures; vomiting and/or diarrhea (with and without blood); weight loss; pale gums, increased thirst or urination, weakness, bleeding, bruising; rare instances of death. This product was voluntarily withdrawn from the market in 2004 because of deaths but has been reintroduced. For any other brand, research the product or its active ingredient before even thinking of administering it. Also, never give any meds without first learning if any vitamins, minerals, herbal products or drugs interact negatively with the medication. Note age restrictions. Most importantly, learn what symptoms alert you to a reaction. Important note: Studies have indicated that certain dogs of the herding breeds are more sensitive to the effects of ivermectin (Heartgard and others) administered at elevated dose levels due to the MDR1 gene. Dog breeds that may be affected include Australian Shepherd, Australian Shepherd Mini, Border Collie, Collie and English Shepherd. Beware any website or person professing the absolute safety of any medication. I’d like adverse reactions for pet medications to be included in all TV ads, as they are for meds for humans — but I don’t expect it. Reporting Adverse Events: Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect a reaction to this or any other drug. Discuss alternatives and treatment and make sure the reaction is recorded in your dog’s file. The AVMA says : “… notify the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) by contacting the manufacturer. The FDA requires that manufacturers of FDA-approved drugs forward adverse event reports to the agency.” Is the fox is guarding the hen house? Ask your vet to report the reaction, then follow up and make sure your vet did it. Under-reporting is common. (An estimated 99% of adverse reactions go unreported according to the FDA.) Click here for FDA reporting instructions. Tests for Heartworm Infection Heartworms can, and should, be detected by a simple blood test before administering medication. The antigen test detects an adult female worms at least 5-8 months old. The Merck Veterinary Manual says: “The antigen detection test is the preferred diagnostic method for asymptomatic dogs or when seeking verification of a suspected HW infection.” Microfilariae (babies) in the blood are detected by a different blood test. These show exposure, but do not detect female adults (potential breeders). Antibody tests (as opposed to antigen tests) are not preferred because they indicate only that the dog has been exposed to heartworms at some time in his or her life, even if the worms subsequently died. If you plan to give “preventatives,” test before beginning medication, preferably within a month of when daily temperatures consistently climb above 57˚ F. Read more at the Heartworm Society Serology section. If you’re not going to use meds, homeopathic veterinarian Jeff Feinman wrote me that he advises semi-annual testing when not using preventatives. My own vet, Tamara Hebbler, agrees. Testing twice yearly helps you catch disease early when it’s easier to treat. Dr. Martin Goldstein in The Nature Of Animal Healing says: “Only a small percentage of dogs who get heartworm die of it, especially if they’re routinely tested twice yearly for early detection. Even in untreated dogs, after a period of uncomfortable symptoms, the adult worms die….” Did you know that the latest canine movie star “Benji” was found in a shelter, infected with heartworms? Benji was treated successfully and went onto canine fame and a healthy life. Heartworms, like other parasites, don’t become life threatening quickly or inevitably. It takes at least 5 months, and more often 7-8 months, for a baby to grow to a reproducing adult — presuming the dog’s immune system doesn’t intervene. Also, adult males and females must both survive to breed. Important Note If your dog’s antigen test comes back positive, do a second test to verify results. Holistic vet Tamara Hebbler suggests that before you rush into treatment with harsh, poisonous drugs, you should get a cardiac ultrasound to determine the extent of the infestation. Heartworms, like other parasites, often live with their hosts without ever causing a dangerous problem. It’s quite common for animals in the wild to live entire lives with heartworms. (If worms always killed dogs, they’d soon run out of hosts.) Unless heartworms are re-introduced by another infected mosquito, the adults and their babies will eventually die off. When Should You Start Administering Meds — If You’re Going To? Remember, you kill heartworm babies after the fact. You can only “prevent” them by avoiding mosquitoes. (You can also kill them with a healthy immune system.) This means starting meds 30-45 days after the weather warms and mosquitoes appear. Also, Washington State University warns, “If your pet travels to heartworm areas, prevention needs to be administered within 30 days of exposure to infected mosquitoes. Adult dogs (older than 6 mos.) need to be tested before starting preventative.” Dr. Margo Roman, an integrative vet from in Massachusetts, documentary film maker and Founder of the first-ever Integrative Health Pet Expo in Massachusetts this fall, tells me she begins medication six weeks after sees mosquitoes. This allows 2 weeks for the microfilariae (baby heartworms) to mature inside a mosquito to the infective stage and be transferred to a dog, plus 30 days additional days covered by the medication working backwards to kill those babies. When Should You Stop Heartworm “Preventatives”? Dr. Roman recommends stopping meds after the first frost for people living in an area with cold winters. In other areas, vets recommend stopping 30-45 days after weather is consistently below 57 F degrees and you see no mosquitoes. What Brand Should You Use? Consumers often think that “preventing” as many parasites as possible with one product is a bargain — and ultimately safer for the dog. But why expose your dog to additional, unnecessary toxins? Most holistic vets will tell you to protect against only those pests (and diseases) your dog is likely to encounter. To see which products do what, see the “preventatives” comparison chart at Veterinary Partner. ***Low Dose “Safeheart” Medication Approved by the FDA More than a decade ago — on June 4, 1998 — the FDA approved a 1/5 dose version of Interceptor heartworm medication, a product called Safeheart. This expensive field trial was conducted and the dosage approved — but inexplicably the product was never marketed in the U.S. To duplicate the Safeheart heartworm “prevention” method — which you can’t buy — you have to split the Interceptor dose into quarters. Check with Interceptor first, and ask your pharmacist or vet how to do this accurately. The recommended once-a-month dosage is 0.1 mg of milbemycin oxime per kg of body weight (0.05 mg/lb). (Interceptor’s regular dose of dosage is 0.5 mg milbemycin oxime per kg of body weight.) Note: At this dose, only heartworms will be treated with the Safeheart method, not other worms or fleas. How Often Should You Give Meds? In his important book Homeopathic Care For Cats and Dogs, veterinarian Don Hamilton says of heartworm: “In dogs the “monthly” preventives are effective if given at six week intervals, and possibly even at seven- or eight week intervals….” Author/veterinarians Richard Pitcairn and Allen Schoen told us essentially the same thing when we were researching our book Scared Poopless. If you opt for this “less is more” treatment with “preventatives,” mark dosing dates on your calendar and don’t miss them. The vets at Holistic Vet Center say: “… monthly heartworm preventatives are actually 100% effective if given every 45 days and 99% effective if given every 60 days.” I presume that the monthly schedule was designed for the ease of remembering when to give meds. However … giving meds monthly rather than every 45 days requires more doses — and offers more opportunities for adverse reactions. For someone medicating year-round, that’s 4 fewer doses per year. Are There Natural Heartworm Preventatives? Mosquito control is the ultimate natural preventative. No mosquitoes, no heartworms. Control mosquitoes by eliminating standing water and staying indoors at dusk and dawn. Use bug spray (marked safe and non-toxic for animals and children). Buy bug zappers. (All these are good ideas for human protection from mosquito-borne diseases as well.) What do I do? Well, for me, the choice was easy. I live in So. California. I rarely see mosquitoes. My dogs spend most of their time indoors. Nights are invariably cool. With the advice of two local vets, I decided to protect my own dogs (both of whom have health challenges) against the toxicity of heartworm “preventatives” rather than protect against an unlikely infection. I use non-toxic alternatives like mosquito control, an excellent diet and no drugs unless they’re absolutely unavoidable. I increase safety by testing blood twice yearly. I haven’t used “preventatives” for five or six years and my dogs remain heartworm free. This is my personal decision. I am not a vet. If I lived in a mosquito-heavy area, however, I might do much the same. I would determine local risks and would consult a local holistic vet to get help preventing heartworms naturally. I would control mosquitoes and test blood twice or more yearly. Someone who had “outside dogs,” and who was the nervous about heartworms, might also use heartworm meds or the Safeheart method during the peak heartworm months of July and August, but only if their dogs had healthy kidneys and livers. They should make any decision with a knowledgeable vet. Dr. Will Falconer, a holistic vet certified in acupuncture and homeopathy, has written an e-book called “Drug-Free Heartworm Prevention.” This 50+ page, well-written e-book is delivered electronically. I do not profit from sales of this book although I was given a complementary review copy. Drs. Richard Pitcairn and Martin Goldstein have also written about heartworms in their books. Most importantly, do not make decisions out of fear. Don’t let anyone, even your vet, intimidate or ridicule you. Be an educated consumer and a rabid advocate for your dog’s health.

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Anaplasmosis in Dogs

What is Anaplasmosis in Dogs and Cats? Anaplasmosis is a tickborne disease in dogs and cats that was formerly known as Ehrlichiosis and has two different forms. The more common, found throughout a larger area of the country, is caused by a bacterium called Anaplasma phagocytophilum. This form of anaplasmosis is transmitted to animals (and people) by tick bites primarily from the black-legged tick (aka the deer tick) (Ixodes scapularis) and the western black-legged tick (Ixodes pacificus). These are the same ticks that transmit Lyme disease, which increases the risk of coinfection with anaplasmosis. The lessor form of anaplasmosis is caused by the organism Anaplasma platys and is an infection of the blood platelets that can lead to bleeding disorders and is transmitted by the brown dog tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus). Ticks in the nymph and adult life stages are most frequently associated with transmission of anaplasmosis to dogs and cats, however this tickborne illness is much more common in dogs and so for the purpose of this article we will focus more on our canine companions. Symptoms of Anaplasmosis in Dogs Typical symptoms of Anaplasmosis in dogs, cats and other animals can be difficult to diagnose, because animals can’t describe their symptoms and signs can be unclear. However, pet parents are usually familiar with their animal's normal behavior and can often tell when one is feeling under-the-weather. Distinguishing between a bacterial or viral infection and tickborne disease can’t be diagnosed without specialized laboratory tests, but symptoms to watch for that could be related to Anaplasma phagocytophilum included: Loss of appetite Lethargy Lameness, joint pain, reluctance to move Fever Neck pain or neurological signs in some cases Symptoms of Anaplasma platys are often very difficult for pet owners to identify as an infection. Since this tickborne illness can interfere with proper blood clotting typical symptoms can include any of the following: Bruising on the gums and belly Spontaneous nosebleeds Usually, symptoms of Anaplasmosis will occur within 1-2 weeks of a tick bite. How to Treat Anaplasmosis in Dogs After anaplasmosis is diagnosed, conventional treatment relies on the antibiotic Doxycycline which is a tetracycline antibiotic. Many infected dogs are treated for 30 days and in the majority of cases, symptoms improve rapidly. One of our concerns with the use of an antibiotic like Doxycycline is that this class of tetracycline antibiotics are known as broad spectrum, which means they are effective against a wide range of bacteria, including the beneficial bacteria that inhabit your dog and cat’s intestinal tract. Destruction of the normal ecology of the intestinal tract with the use of a powerful antibiotics for such a long period of time can lead to chronic illnesses like IBD, urinary tract infections, candida overgrowth etc. The reason we mention this is because many animals are able to fight off tickborne illness on their own. The blood test that shows anaplasmosis antibodies indicates that a dog or cat's immune system is responding to the infection. Many holistic veterinarians often recommend to keep an eye on your animal and see if any symptoms present themselves. Even if lameness shows, we have had vets recommend to wait for a day or two to see if it resolves itself and it often does. Doxycycline is often used out of fear and this is not healthy for your animal. Antibiotics should only be used if absolutely necessary. Natural Treatment for Anaplasmosis in Dogs We have used natural treatments quite successfully for tickborne illnesses. Many dogs we have worked with have responded wonderfully to our Antimicrobial formula. This formula contains the immune boosting herbs echinacea and cat’s claw along with antimicrobial herbs such as thyme, goldenseal and oregano. This blend of herbs helps to support the immune system by providing antimicrobial properties and boosting white blood cell production. The side-effects described in the Conventional Treatment above are why we recommend a natural course of treatment initially for anaplasmosis if your dog's situation is not immediately life-threatening. In our experience antibiotics like Doxycycline can always be used later if the natural course of treatment does not produce the desired results, and you may be able to avoid some potentially life-changing side-effects for your canine. See the next paragraph... Does My Pet Require Treatment for Anaplasmosis? The screening test used by most veterinarians is the Idexx Snap 4Dx and a positive test indicates exposure and not necessarily clinical disease. Your veterinarian will need to evaluate your dog’s symptoms in conjunction with additional diagnostic tests to determine if your dog needs treatment. Many of our clients inform us that their dog is being treated for a tickborne illness after the fact. They tell us there were no symptoms, but a positive test came back during a yearly veterinarian examination and a course of Doxycycline has been recommended. This does not make us happy; see side effects of Doxycycline above. According to Dr. Dawn Burke, anaplasmosis is largely a self-limiting infection, which means, according to medical definition, it is a condition that ultimately resolves itself without treatment. Many animals will come into contact with a tickborne illness, like anaplasmosis, during their lifetime, but they will never display clinical symptoms because their immune system is functioning properly. If there are no symptoms a complete blood count to check for abnormalities can be performed, if there are none then treatment should not be recommended with the animal monitored for anaplasmosis symptoms as always in the future. Where is Anaplasmosis Most Common? Both forms of canine anaplasmosis are found throughout the United States and Canada, wherever there are deer, western black-legged and brown dog ticks. Areas where Anaplasma phagocytophilum are more common include the northeastern, mid-Atlantic and north-central states, as well as California. Anaplasma platys is more common in Gulf Coast and southwestern states because the brown dog tick is more common in warmer climates.   How Long Does Anaplasmosis Last in Dogs? In our experience, if an animal displays symptoms that can be associated with anaplasmosis, such as lameness or lethargy, these will often resolve themselves within 24 - 48 hours though they can last up to 7 days. We have had clients confirm this and we have experienced this with our own dogs, though we have sometimes provided our Antimicrobial formula. Please keep in mind that an animal may test positive for anaplasmosis for their lifetime. This does not mean the animal has an active infection, just that antibodies are still present in the blood from exposure to the bacterial organism. During this time, if the dog is clinically healthy, a second round of antibiotic therapy to try to obtain a negative blood test is generally not recommended. Be aware that some of these animals may have a chronic, low-level infection and could be adversely affected by medications that compromise the immune system, such as steroids, so use these drugs with caution. Focus on supporting the immune system of these canines by using astragalus, mushrooms or colostrum. How Common is Anaplasmosis in Dogs? One study demonstrated that approximately 40% or more of dogs from areas where anaplasmosis is common may be seropositive (a positive result on a blood test). However, it appears that many dogs that have antibodies to A. phagocytophilum display no evidence of clinical disease. These otherwise healthy animals may have a low-level, persistent infection with the anaplasmosis organism and be labeled "chronically infected carriers" but never become ill. They should be monitored and have their immune systems kept healthy using diet, supplements, and limiting exposure to unnecesary vaccinations, flea and tick pesticide products (ironically, but this is important - use natural methods instead) and other chemicals. How Serious is Anaplasmosis in Dogs? Animals infected with the most common form of anaplasmosis, A. phagocytophilum, will usally have symptoms for 1 to 7 days; however, some will have no or only minor symptoms. If symptoms do last longer and require treatment with Doxycycline symptoms improve rapidly. Dogs are often markedly better 24 to 48 hours after therapy is begun, and the prognosis for clinical recovery is excellent. In the case of infection with the less common A. platys that can interfere with the blood clotting process, clinical disease is often mild, but some dogs may develop bruising or bleeding (including nosebleeds), especially during the early stages of infection when platelet counts may be at their lowest. How to prevent Anaplasmosis in Dogs? This can be looked at two ways. The first is avoiding exposure to ticks. This can be accomplished by avoiding areas that have high tick populations and if this can't be done then a safer, chemical-free, repellent should be used. Since natural sprays dissipate more quickly the spray should be reapplied every 1 - 2 hours. Then, after potential exposure you should thoroughly go over your dog and remove any ticks you find. A tick must be attached and feed for at least 12-24 hours to transmit anaplasmosis to your animal so if your remove it before then your animal should be okay and not all ticks carry this bacteria. The other important thing to do is maintain your animal's immune system by providing a healthy diet, immune boosting supplements and lowering their exposure to stress. Individuals are generally programmed to focus on "killing" organisms but we focus more (at least at first) on "building immunity" against invaders. If you maintain a strong immune system, this will usually be enough to protect your dog or cat from tickborne illness. Please keep in mind that this "protection" is indicated by the presence of antibodies on a blood test - this means your animal's immune system is doing its job! How to Test for Anaplasmosis in Dogs? There are several types of tests for anaplasmosis that include: enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), indirect fluorescent antibody (IFA), and polymerase chain reaction (PCR). In addition, the bacterial organism can sometimes be seen through a microscope during peak phases of infection. The screening test used by most veterinarians is the Idexx Snap 4Dx, and please keep in mind that a positive test indicates exposure and not necessarily clinical disease. Does Anaplasmosis Just Go Away in Dogs? Infection with the more common form of anaplasmosis, A. phagocytophilum, often causes lameness, joint pain, fever, lethargy, and lack of appetite. Some infected dogs will have symptoms for 1 to 7 days; however, some will have no, or only minor, symptoms. In most cases a dog's immune system responds by creating antibodies to defend against the bacteria, but as indicated earlier this does not mean they have clinical disease if there are no symptoms present. Without the pet owner doing anything, the afflicted canine will often regain health in a few days as the immune system responds. During this time it would be beneficial to provide herbs such as echinacea or cat's claw that support immune function as found in our Antimicrobial formula. If symptoms increase in severity or continue for more than a few days treatment with Doxycycline may be necessary. References Anaplasmosis. Retrieved from http://www.cdc.gov/anaplasmosis/ Lawrence, W. (April 2012). Beyond antibiotics. Retrieved from http://www.drlwilson.com/articles/antibiotics.htm Anaplasmosis. Retrieved from http://www.dogsandticks.com/diseases_and_symptoms/anaplasmosis.php 2012 Dawn, B. Anaplasmosis. Retrieved from http://ygrr.org/doginfo/health-ANAPLASMOSIS.htm Ward, E. DVM. Anaplasmosis in dogs. Retrieved from https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/anaplasmosis-in-dogs

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