Natural Pet Health Education

Detoxification and Healing Crisis Information

Conventional pet care has created an overabundance of very sick animals. The procedure for undoing all that damage takes the body through a process of detoxification, sometimes referred to as a healing crisis, in which current problems may intensify and old problems may reemerge. But how do we know if the symptoms we are seeing are healthy and when they can present a greater risk? Symptoms related to healthy detoxification include: Skin irritation and/or eruptions Mild vomiting Mild diarrhea or soft stool Clear eye and nasal discharge Sour breath Body odor Waxy build up in ears Mild lethargy Mild fever Any symptoms related to problems your animal has previously experienced These symptoms all relate to the body’s attempt to push wastes, toxins and other causes of internal imbalance outward. The body does this in order to maintain, or reestablish, internal stability, also known as homeostasis. None of the above are serious cause for concern, however a competent holistic veterinarian should be consulted if your pet: Stops eating and drinking normally for more than 24hrs Runs a fever for more than 24 hours (normal canine and feline temperature range is 100.5 – 102.5 degrees) Has unusual symptoms not seen before Displays extreme lethargy Has liquid diarrhea for longer than 24 hours (soft stool is okay, and may take awhile to resolve) We usually prefer a cautious approach when creating a healing program for an animal. The more tenuous the health of the animal, the slower changes should be introduced. The reason for this is that an animal that is highly toxic, and whose state of health is very poor, can actually be overwhelmed by the sudden release of too many toxins into their blood stream, in effect being poisoned by their body’s own healing process. To prevent more severe and uncomfortable symptoms, begin with half doses and build up to the full dosage. Also, dosages can be backed down, or the animal rested for a few days from the remedy altogether, if more undesirable symptoms appear. As uncomfortable as it may be for the human caregiver, as long as your animal is displaying healthy symptoms of detoxification, it is important to maintain the course you have begun. It is at this time that your animal’s body is purging wastes and toxins from their system, and beginning the journey back towards internal balance and true health. If this process is interrupted with powerful pharmaceutical drugs, obvious symptoms may disappear, but the internal disease process will still exist and the chance for true healing will be lost.

  • Cats
  • Dogs
  • Health

Orijen Dog Food Review

Please Note: Mars Petcare acquired Champion Petfoods, the parent company of Orijen pet food, on February 28, 2023. Champion Petfoods is a Canadian-based company that operates as an independent business unit within Mars Pet Nutrition. Since this acquisition some of the information below may become outdated. We will not be updating this information. For our current dog food recommendations and advice for home-preparing diets please consult our article How to Feed Your Dog.  Orijen Dog Food is a kibble diet made by Champion Petfoods out of Alberta, Canada. This review aims to give consumers some information about this pet food in order for them to be able to make an educated purchasing decision. This dog food review is as unbiased as possible and is aided by our years of experience, having fed Orijen to our own animals, and feedback from our customers. The Good Made exclusively in Champion Pet Food's own factory Made with "fit for human consumption" ingredients A biologically appropriate diet for canines Obtains the majority of its nutrition from natural, unprocessed ingredients as opposed to relying on synthetic/isolated vitamins and minerals Very high fresh meat content (75-80%) compared with conventional pet foods (25-40%) Low in carbohydrates (20-25%) 50% of Orijen's ingredients arrive fresh each day High ratio of fresh meat provides a rich source of glucosamine and chondroitin without adding synthetic ingredients Formulated with botanicals that are a part of the natural canine diet and act as tonics to help strengthen organs and tissue The Not-As-Good A small percentage of dogs find the starch from the potato content harder to digest (can be remedied with an enzyme supplement) Since this food is so popular there can be occasional shortages frustrating both retailers and consumers Expense is a concern with some consumers. However, this is a dog food made with the highest inclusion of REAL FRESH MEAT of any kibble diet. The Bottom Line Taking into account the manufacturing process and the ingredients used, Orijen Dog Food is simply the best dry dog food available today. The only other kibble diet that even comes close is Orijen’s sister dog food Acana. Review Orijen Dog Food is a high-protein, low-carbohydrate and grain-free, biologically appropriate diet with a ratio of 75-80 percent meat; 20-25 percent fruit and vegetables; and zero grains. Orijen features human-grade ingredients, we don’t recommend anything less, so you aren’t going to find any of the questionably sourced rendered meats or waste and by-products of the human food industry that are so common in commercial dog foods today. The meats used are never frozen and contain no preservatives. Unlike most commercial pet foods, the fresh regional meats used in Orijen Dog Food are processed the same day they are received, and are a key factor in the superior palatability and feeding performance of Orijen. Fresh regional ingredients like chicken and fresh whole eggs produced on local prairie farms; lake whitefish freshly caught in northern Canadian lakes; and salmon, cranberries and apples from Pacific coast oceans and orchards are used. These ingredients found in Orijen Dog Food can’t be over-emphasized because they are full of nutrients that are usually depleted by long-term storage and shipping and can’t in any way be compared to the highly refined commodity ingredients found in many other pet foods. Having one of the highest meat inclusions of any kibble dog food, means Orijen Dog Food is going to provide your canine companion with the biologically available and easily digested and assimilated protein sources a dog needs for good muscle tone, adequate energy levels, injury healing and a healthy immune system. The fresh regional fish, such as salmon and white fish, provide the fatty acids that dogs have a hard time producing themselves (including DHA and EPA) that are so important to nutritionally support the development of cell membranes, immune system function and a vibrant skin and coat. In many commercial pet foods, the fresh fish is replaced with fish oil imported all the way from China - preservatives and all! When comparing kibble dog foods, Orijen is matched only by its sister food, Acana, and Natures Logic Dog Food in the way it derives the bulk of its nutrition from whole food ingredients. Instead of relying on large quantities of synthetic vitamins to meet AAFCO requirements, Orijen focuses on fresh fruits and vegetables and native botanicals that include marshmallow, burdock, chicory root, stinging nettle and milk thistle. All of these replicate the natural canine diet and help to soothe, nourish and tone the digestive tract, strengthen the liver and control insulin levels. In addition, all delicate ingredients, such as the botanicals and beneficial microorganisms are added after the cooking process to preserve their natural nutritional qualities. We are sure that you and your canine will also appreciate the absence of any artificial flavors, colors and preservatives! One thing we have noticed about Orijen Dog Food is that since it is such a dense kibble some dogs, who have a weak or damaged digestive system, can have problems digesting it. For these animals the use of a high-quality digestive enzyme supplement is very important (we recommend you supplement with enzymes when feeding kibble foods anyway). If this fails to solve any digestive issues you can always switch to Acana, or consider a raw food diet, which contains natural enzymes and will be easier to digest. Champion Pet Foods, the manufacturer of Orijen Dog Food, is just as special as the quality of the ingredients. Based in Canada, this family owned business formulates Orijen Dog Food in their own facility and has been manufacturing high caliber pet food for over 35 years. This keeps quality control in-house and is a huge selling point with us, especially after the large pet food recalls! Further proof of their passion to provide the highest-quality dog food is their proprietary, low-temperature (90C) processing method, which includes steam-cooking their fresh ingredients in small batches to preserve the natural goodness and delicious taste. Is there another kibble diet better than Orijen Dog Food? We don’t believe so. The only real competition comes from its sister food, Acana, and you can’t go wrong with either one!

  • Pet Food Reviews

Orijen Cat Food Review

Please Note: Mars Petcare acquired Champion Petfoods, the parent company of Orijen pet food, on February 28, 2023. Champion Petfoods is a Canadian-based company that operates as an independent business unit within Mars Pet Nutrition. Since this acquisition some of the information below may become outdated. We will not be updating this information. For our current cat food recommendations and advice for home-preparing diets please consult our article How to Feed Your Cat.  Orijen Cat Food is a kibble diet made by Champion Petfoods out of Alberta, Canada. This review aims to give consumers some information about this pet food in order for them to be able to make an educated purchasing decision. This cat food review is as unbiased as possible and is aided by our years of experience, having fed Orijen to our own animals, and feedback from our customers. The Good Made exclusively in Champion Pet Food's own factory Made with "fit for human consumption" ingredients A biologically appropriate diet for felines Obtains the majority of its nutrition from natural, unprocessed ingredients as opposed to relying on synthetic/isolated vitamins and minerals Very high fresh meat content (80%) compared with conventional pet foods (25-40%) Low in carbohydrates (20%) 50% of Orijen's ingredients arrive fresh each day High ratio of fresh meat provides a rich source of glucosamine and chondroitin without adding synthetic ingredients Formulated with botanicals that are a part of the natural feline diet and act as tonics to help strengthen organs and tissue The Not-As-Good Since this food is so popular there can be occasional shortages frustrating both retailers and consumers Expense is a concern with some consumers. However, this is a cat food made with the highest inclusion of REAL FRESH MEAT of any kibble diet. The Bottom Line Taking into account the manufacturing process and the ingredients used, Orijen Cat Food is simply the best dry cat food available today. The only other kibble diet that even comes close is Orijen’s sister cat food Acana. Review Orijen Cat Food is a high-protein, low-carbohydrate and grain-free, biologically appropriate diet with a ratio of 80 percent meat; 20 percent fruit and vegetables; and zero grains. Orijen features human-grade ingredients, we don’t recommend anything less, so you aren’t going to find any of the rendered meats or waste and by-products of the human food industry that are so common in commercial cat foods today. The meats used are never frozen and contain no preservatives. Unlike most commercial pet foods, the fresh regional meats used in Orijen Cat Food are processed the same day they are received, and are a key factor in the superior palatability and feeding performance of Orijen. Fresh regional ingredients like chicken and fresh whole eggs produced on local prairie farms; lake whitefish freshly caught in northern Canadian lakes; and salmon, cranberries and apples from Pacific coast oceans and orchards are used. These ingredients found in Orijen Cat Food can’t be over-emphasized because they are full of nutrients that are usually depleted by long-term storage and shipping and can’t in any way be compared to the highly refined commodity ingredients found in many other pet foods. Having one of the highest meat inclusions of any kibble cat food, means Orijen Cat Food is going to provide your feline companion with the biologically available and easily digested and assimilated protein sources a cat needs for good muscle tone, adequate energy levels, injury healing and a healthy immune system. The fresh regional fish, such as salmon and white fish, provide the fatty acids that cats have a hard time producing themselves (including DHA and EPA) that are so important to nutritionally support the development of cell membranes, immune system function and a vibrant skin and coat. In many commercial pet foods, the fresh fish is replaced with fish oil imported all the way from China - preservatives and all! When comparing kibble cat foods, Orijen is matched only by its sister food, Acana, and Nature's Logic Pet Food in the way it derives the bulk of its nutrition from whole food ingredients. Instead of relying on large quantities of synthetic vitamins to meet AAFCO requirements, Orijen focuses on fresh fruits and vegetables and native botanicals that include marshmallow, burdock, chicory root, stinging nettle and milk thistle. All of these replicate the natural feline diet and help to soothe, nourish and tone the digestive tract, strengthen the liver and control insulin levels. In addition, all delicate ingredients, such as the botanicals and beneficial microorganisms are added after the cooking process to preserve their natural nutritional qualities. We are sure that you and your feline will also appreciate the absence of any artificial flavors, colors and preservatives! Champion Pet Foods, the manufacturer of Orijen Cat Food, is just as special as the quality of the ingredients. Based in Canada, this family owned business formulates Orijen Cat Food in their own facility and has been manufacturing high caliber pet food for over 35 years. This keeps quality control in-house and is a huge selling point with us, especially after the large pet food recalls! Further proof of their passion to provide the highest-quality cat food is their proprietary, low-temperature (90C) processing method, which includes steam-cooking their fresh ingredients in small batches to preserve the natural goodness and delicious taste. Is there another kibble diet better than Orijen Cat Food? We don’t believe so. The only real competition comes from its sister food, Acana, and you can’t go wrong with either one!

  • Pet Food Reviews

Natural Flea Control Solutions

The Concept of putting systemic pesticides on our companion animals under the guise of maintaining good health seems to us a crazy idea. Often these dangerous chemicals can make our animals very sick, with the related health concerns easily outweighing the marketing promises in our opinion. When you further understand that 80% of a flea's lifespan is spent, and 95% of a flea population exists, in your animal's environment, poisoning your animal may seem even crazier to you! When manufacturing and marketing these topical flea and tick pesticides, it is evident to us that the overall health and wellness of your animals did not enter into the decision making process at all. The major concerns of the manufacturers appears to be that one, the poisons used did kill fleas and two, they needed to make sure that most animals did not keel over dead immediately after application. Both these concerns have been successful as most of the poisons, at this time, do kill fleas and most animals do not die instantly. A majority of animals, though, do exhibit a wide range of adverse events within hours of being treated with an application of a flea pesticide product. In our store we see unwanted symptoms in animals that can be traced back to the use of a spot on flea product on a weekly basis. In other words, an animal was perfectly fine and within minutes to a couple of weeks after the application of a chemical flea and tick product the animal begins to experience adverse symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, tremors or lethargy. Often, these symptoms take on the form of chronic illness, such as skin imbalances, and are not associated with the use of the flea pesticide products. Even when acute, sudden onset symptoms are seen, veterinarians often pontificate as to the inducement of the unwelcome symptoms being caused by something else and unrelated to the recent use of a topical flea pesticide. In our conversation with Merial (makers of Frontline), we asked what was the longest clinical trial on a single group of dogs. The answer is 90 DAYS! This is a usual time frame for a trial, some companies' trials may be a little longer and some may be a little less. The important thing to note is NOBODY KNOWS THE LONG TERM EFFECT OF USING THESE CHEMICALS, NOT EVEN THE MANUFACTURERS! Keep this information in mind the next time someone assures you that these products are safe. There is no way for anyone to know that. The fact is their has been, and continues to be acute illness, chronic illness and even death in animals that has been reported after the use of these systemic pesticides. What You May Not Know About Flea and Tick Pesticides Fleas are beginning to show resistance by developing immunity to these products Ingredients in topical flea and tick products have been shown to damage the thyroid, cause neurological and reproductive disorders and skin irritations, harm the liver and accumulate in body fat. Nothing is known about their long-term use. Supposedly the neurotoxins in these products effects only insects, but they are converted in the body of mammals into neurotoxins and endocrine disruptors. We will see more and more genetic damage in our animals down the line. This means weaker and sicklier animals as generations progress. Most of the flea poisons marketed to consumers target the flea. Yet, the majority of a flea's lifespan is not even spent on your animal! Bug-bombs are not effective against flea eggs and larvae. Flea collars are particularly ineffective. Fleas simply move away from the collar to other parts of your animal! Flea pesticide toxins pass through our animals 80% intact and into our drinking water - don't forget, they are neurotoxins and endocrine disruptors! Flea Life Cycle Flea Facts Fleas and mammals have been around for thousands of years, so there must be some relationship if they have existed together for so long. The misleading, fear driven marketing of flea pesticide products has created a billion dollar industry perpetuated by the pharmaceutical industry and some veterinarians. Fleas prefer weaker, less healthy hosts and puppies and kittens with less developed immune systems. Fleas are highly adaptable and evidence is coming to light that shows fleas are becoming resistant to commercial flea chemicals. Fleas have a difficult time surviving in a clean environment. The most prevalent species of flea is the Cat Flea, which also use dogs as a host. Under average household conditions, cat fleas will complete their life cycle within 3 to 4 weeks. Eggs typically make up 50% of an infestation in the home and the majority of these wind up in the environment off of your animal. Humidity below 50% and over 92% kills flea eggs. Larvae are free moving, and survive by feeding on organic debris found in their environment and on adult flea feces, which is essential for successful development. The larval stage usually lasts 5 to 11 days, depending upon the availability of food and the climatic conditions, and will account for about 35% of an infestation in a home. Upon completion of development, the mature larva produces a silk-like cocoon in which it pupates. Pupae are unaffected by household chemical sprays and commonly make up 10% of the infestation in a home. Once the flea emerges from the cocoon it can survive for 1 to 3 weeks before requiring a blood meal. Adult fleas make up only about 5% of a population and can live for as long as four months. If you have been using systemic pesticides on your pet we urge you to stop and take a more common sense approach. As you can see by the brief description of the life cycle of a flea above, if you are applying flea poisons to your animal you are only targeting 5% of the fleas! Since fleas are parasites the key is to strengthen the host and use effective natural ways to control flea populations in and around your home. Natural Flea Control Strengthen the host!Fleas are parasites and prey on weak animals. Poor commercial pet foods create a weak and out-of-balance animal; the perfect host for a flea. Purchase the best food you can afford for your animals. A whole food, natural diet minus any hormones, pesticides, chemicals, artificial additives and synthetic vitamins. Many of these toxins are secreted through hair follicles exacerbating skin problems, including flea bite dermatitis. Maintain healthy digestion and waste elimination by providing your animal with digestive enzymes, prebiotics and probiotics. Support a healthy immune system with a quality multi-vitamin and the periodic use of detoxifying and nutritive herbs. Add some essential fatty acids, such as a quality fish oil supplement, to your animals diet to ensure your animal has healthy skin and coat. Try a natural supplement such as brewers yeast and garlic or a yeast-free product to boost your animal's natural defenses and make them less tasty to fleas. Good housekeeping is a must. Vacuum regularly and thoroughly, including sofas and your animal's sleeping areas, and clean carpets. Don't forget to get rid of the vacuum bag or add diatomaceous earth or borate powder to the bag. Remember what was mentioned above? The majority of a flea's lifespan is spent off of your animal and fleas can not exist in a clean environment. Wash dog and cat beds as well as blankets and furniture that your pets sleep on. Inside you can use natural flea treatment powders that can be brushed into carpets, under furniture and pet beds or anywhere else you think fleas may be hiding and breeding. These powders work by either dehydrating flea larvae or by damaging a flea's exoskeleton and causing dessication. Because of fine particles that may irritate the lungs you should where a mask when applying diatomaceous earth or borate powder products. Treat your yard naturally by applying beneficial nematodes once or twice a year (depending on climate). These are beneficial insects that feed on insect larvae and will do a great job of keeping the outdoor flea population in check. Groom your companion By brushing your animal once or twice per week you will be removing dead hair, mats and tangles. All are prime hiding places for fleas. Purchase a flea comb. Pay close attention to places fleas typically congregate - belly area, under legs, and around the head and tail. When you find fleas, drown them in soapy water. Try natural, herbal shampoos and topical sprays. Bathe your pet with a nice healthy natural shampoo. Not too often as that may remove your animal's natural oils, drying out their skin. Avoid shampoos with chemical ingredients as these may also dry out and damage your animal's skin. You need to trust your retailer because manufacturers are not required to put all the ingredients that are in their shampoos on the label! At The Pet Health and Nutrition Center we check and have already caught one deceptive manufacturer! You don''t need to use toxic flea shampoos, just make sure you thoroughly wet and lather your pet. Leave the lather on for 10 to 15 minutes and then rinse really well making sure everything is washed down the drain. The shampoo breaks the surface tension so most if not all of the fleas will drown during bathing. We have some wonderful natural flea and tick sprays and powders that are effective. They can be applied directly onto your animal being careful of the eyes or placed on your hand or a towel or brush and then distributed through your animal's coat. Avoid the use of products containing essential oils on cats. Some, in small amounts may be okay, but unless you are sure which ones it is best to avoid them. Instead, use a hydrosol, sometimes called floral water, on your cat. That's it, no chemicals just a nice clean house and companion! Shop for Flea and Tick Control Products for Dogs and Cats  

  • Cats
  • Dogs
  • Health

Martingale Limited Slip Dog Collar Information

For dogs that frequently escape their collars, the martingale or limited slip style collar could help solve the problem. For certain breeds, such as Grey Hounds, the dog's neck and head are similar in size allowing the dog an easier chance of backing out of his collar. While a choke chain can damage a dog's trachea and be painful, the martingale causes little or no discomfort while tightening enough to prevent a dog from backing out of his collar. When fitting this type of collar, it should be comfortably snug and not too tight. Pros of Limited Slip Style Dog Collars Difficult for dogs to slip out of collars Does not easily cause damage to trachea or neck as can standard choke collars Will not choke a dog when tightened and used properly Cons of Limited Slip Style Dog Collars Dogs left unattended may accidentally choke themselves by getting a paw or something else caught on the smaller loop. These collars should be removed when dogs are unattended and replaced with a safety or safer collar. Dogs can also choke while playing with each other becoming entangled with another dog. When playing a safety collar should be used, that releases the dog easily, or collars should be removed.

  • Dogs
  • Relationship

Introducing a New Toy to Your Bird

After doing your best to choose the proper toy for your companion bird (See: Choosing the Right Toy) the next step is introducing that toy. Each bird is unique and some birds will accept new things in their environment more quickly than others. The following is a list of ideas to help you to get your bird to play with his wonderful new toy you put so much effort into choosing: Often a bird may be fearful or intimidated by having new items put directly into his cage. If this is the case with your bird, try hanging the new toy on the outside of the cage at first or on his play gym. Try hanging the toy in the lowest part of the cage, out of the way, so he can investigate at his own pace. Try placing your bird's favorite toy next to the new one. Try a desensitization technique. Begin by having the new toy nearby when you are with your bird so he can see it and have you there for emotional support. Gradually, over several days, move the toy closer to you and your bird until you can touch it from where you are sitting. Begin to calmly touch the new toy, playing with it's individual components, showing your bird how much fun it will be to play with. Be patient with your bird and give emotional support. Practice empathy and understanding to visualize just how scary this new thing may be to your bird. Accept your bird for who he is and try not to get frustrated with him because he is being "unreasonable" about this new thing in his environment. Even though you can't understand why it is so frightening, to your bird it is and that is what matters. Always keep sessions short and end on a positive note. You will know you are making progress when your bird seems more comfortable around the new toy. The more you fuss over and play with the new toy the more curious your bird will become and want to join in the fun. Hand toys are among the safest and are great for young birds and getting a more timid bird used to playing with toys. Do not assume that if your bird doesn't play with a toy he will not play with any toy. Try something different, observe your bird and see what textures he likes to chew or play with (See: Choosing the Right Toy). Introducing a new toy or getting a timid bird to play with toys may take time and patience. However, chewing and playing are vital to preventing boredom and providing your bird with a great quality of life. Good luck and above all else, have fun!

  • Birds

High Pressure Processing (HPP): is it Safe for Pet Dog and Cat Food?

High Pressure Processing (HPP) is a process in which food is subjected to high pressure (up to 100,000psi). This pressure is applied uniformly around and throughout the food product so as to maintain the characteristics of the fresh food. HPP is used to destroy pathogenic organisms and it is believed that this process does not diminish product quality, such as flavor, texture and color, as does heat processing. HPP is used by industry to extend shelf life. Its use is being spurred on by an environment of fear that is pervasive within our society, but at what cost and with what risks? Many of us are aware of the harm that pasteurization does to raw milk. Yes, it kills potentially harmful bacteria, but safe handling, sanitary conditions and stringent safety measures would prevent the presence of this bacteria in the first place. However, the effects of pasteurization on milk are even more insidious. The heat used during this process does kill bacteria and extend shelf life, but it also destroys heat sensitive nutrients like vitamin C and beneficial microorganisms, changes the structural form of lactose, makes calcium less absorbable, destroys iodine content and destroys other vital, health giving qualities that are found in raw milk. And this next part gives a clue to where I am going with HPP. When the lactic acid bacilli, found in raw milk, are killed by pasteurization, the milk does not sour, which is very widely used for its health benefits, but instead quickly decays and undesirable microorganisms multiply very quickly. So the process of pasteurization not only destroys vital nutrients, but can make milk more dangerous if it is not stored properly or gets re-contaminated by pathogenic bacteria at some point during the manufacturing process. While I acknowledge that HPP destroys pathogenic bacteria, a concern is the fact that the beneficial bacteria, enzymes and other functional proteins are known to be destroyed during this process. But what effects don’t we know about at this time? Well, one thing we do know is that the beneficial bacteria found on raw food products, as well as those found in your gastrointestinal tract, are responsible for keeping colonies of pathogenic bacteria from multiplying quickly through competitive inhibition (competing for growth). This leads to my primary concern, which is, once these friendly bacteria are destroyed along with the unfriendly bacteria, there is nothing to keep the pathogenic bacteria from growing out-of-control if the food product is re-contaminated during manufacturing. This is exactly what has happened with several popular brands of kibble dog food recently, as well as over the last several decades, and this re-contamination with pathogenic bacteria, like Salmonella, after the cooking process, without the presence of friendly bacteria, can make people and animals sick. I fear raw pet food manufacturers, like Nature’s Variety and Stella and Chewy’s, are opening up a Pandora’s Box by using HPP, I hope others don’t follow suit. I believe that HPP appears to be safe, according to the information we have available today. Do I support its use on raw pet food? No, for the reasons listed above, and I will tell you a quick story that applies to the use of HPP and supports my position. We always give our cats a little treat before bed, which consists of an ounce or so of their favorite raw cat food. Sometimes they would not finish it all and I would find them munching on it the next morning after it had sat out at room temperature for eight or nine hours or so. I would always rush to try to get the left-over before they ate it because I was concerned with it having sat out unrefrigerated for so long, until I realized that they never got sick. My nineteen year-old cat Lacy would do this every morning as she did for years, and never got sick a day in her life! Why do I tell you this story? Because it was the presence of the beneficial bacteria that existed on this unprocessed raw food that kept any pathogenic bacteria at bay by preventing their population from multiplying. Would Lacy have become ill if I fed her a raw food treated with HPP? Yes, I believe she would have, because all the friendly bacteria would have been destroyed during processing and pathogenic bacteria, prevalent in our environment, could have multiplied unimpeded and contaminated her food. Whenever people come to me concerned with the use of raw food, I remind them that it is kibble and canned pet food that has sickened or killed our dogs and cats over the last few decades, not raw food. I whole heartedly support the use of unprocessed raw food for three reasons: raw food contains whole-food nutrition in a natural form that an animal’s body can easily digest, absorb, metabolize and eliminate what isn’t used and it contains beneficial bacteria, that are not only healthy, but control the growth of pathogenic bacteria that could make our animals sick. In addition, and this is very important, cats and dogs have a gastrointestinal tract that has evolved to deal with the presence of bacteria that can be found in raw food, much more so than the human GI tract. HPP in effect turns raw food into a processed food, and there is potentially trouble down the road for raw pet food manufacturers that choose to proudly market this process, like the two mentioned above, or those that succumb to fear and ignorance.   References 1). From Armchair Science, London (April 1938); Raw Milk Vs. Pasteurized Milk; http://www.realmilk.com/rawvpasteur.html; 11/06/2010 2). High Pressure Dynamics, Inc.; http://www.highpressuredynamics.com/; What is High Pressure Pasteurization?; 7/30/2010 3). Ohio State University Extension; http://ohioline.osu.edu/fse-fact/0001.html; High Pressure Processing; 7/30/2010  

  • Cats
  • Dogs
  • Nutrition

Heartworm Facts

This article on heartworm was reprinted with permission from Jan Rasmusen. Heartworms are Spread by Mosquitoes. Heartworm Meds are Spread by Fear. It’s getting warmer outside — time for sellers of heartworm medications to start scaring you to death. Television and print ads, which used to push meds only during warm summer months, now urge you to keep your dog on medication year round. The question is: why the change? Drs. David Knight and James Lok of the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, addressing recommendations for year round meds, warned: “The practice of some veterinarians to continuously prescribe monthly chemoprophylaxis exaggerates the actual risk of heartworm transmission in most parts of the country and unnecessarily increases the cost of protection to their clients.” So, is the change to year round meds all about money? Or is there more to this story? Heartworm “prevention” is a major health decision for pet parents and multi-billion dollar Big Business for drug companies, veterinarians, testing laboratories and on-line sellers of medication. When health intersects money, there’s a lot of room for conflict of interest. Only by understanding the business aspects and the truth about heartworm transmission can you make an informed decision about if, how and when to protect your dog with commercial products. While everyone agrees that heartworm infestations can be life-threatening, infestation is far from inevitable nor is it the immutable death sentence advertisers would have you believe. (Otherwise, all dogs and cats not on meds would die of infestation. But they don’t.) Every holistic vet I’ve consulted had concerns about the long-term safety of heartworm medications. Well-known vet, author and columnist Martin Goldstein wrote in his wonderful book The Nature of Animal Healing that he sees heartworms as less epidemic than the “disease-causing toxicity” of heartworm medicine. Dr. Jeff Levy, vet and homeopath, concluded “that it was not the heartworms that caused disease, but the other factors that damaged the dogs’ health to the point that they could no longer compensate for an otherwise tolerable parasite load.” Those factors include, “… being vaccinated yearly, eating commercial dog food, and getting suppressive drug treatment for other symptoms….” Heartworm meds do not, by the way, prevent heartworms. They are poisons that kill heartworm larvae (called microfilariae) contracted during the previous 30-45 days (and maybe longer due to what is call the Reach Back Effect). The heartworm industry authority, The American Heartworm Society (and their cat heartworm site), offers a wealth of information. Their website is a public service but also a marketing tool aimed at buyers and resellers of heartworm meds. Sponsors of this website are a Who’s Who of drug companies. Fort Dodge Animal Health (Wyeth), Merial and Pfizer are “Platinum Sponsors.” Bayer merits Silver. Novartis, Schering-Plough, Virbac and Eli Lilly get Bronze. Most of these companies have sales reps that regularly call on vets and show them how to sell you heartworm meds. With any purchase of any drug, we recommend you ask for information regarding possible adverse effects, the necessity for taking this drug and available alternatives. How Heartworms Infect Dogs: It’s Not Easy! Well, now that we’ve looked behind the scenes of the heartworm industry, let’s take a look at how the heartworms themselves (called Dirofilaria immitis) do business. Seven steps must be completed to give your dog a dangerous heartworm infestation: Step 1: To infect your dog, you need mosquitoes (so you need warm temperatures and standing water). More specifically, you need a hungry female mosquito of an appropriate species. Female mosquitoes act as airborne incubators for premature baby heartworms (called microfilariae). Without the proper mosquito, dogs can’t get heartworms. Period. That means dogs can’t “catch” heartworms from other dogs or mammals or from dog park lawns. Puppies can’t “catch” heartworms from their mothers and moms can’t pass heartworm immunity to pups. Step 2: Our hungry mosquito needs access to a dog already infected with sexually mature male and female heartworms that have produced babies. Step 3: The heartworm babies must be at the L1 stage of development (first stage larvae) when the mosquito bites the dog and withdraws blood. If they have matured into L2 or L3 then transmission won’t occur. Step 4: Ten to fourteen days later — if the temperature is right –the microfilariae mature inside the mosquito to the infective L3 stage then migrate to the mosquito’s mouth. (Yum!) Step 5: Madame mosquito transmits the L3’s to your dog’s skin with a bite. Then, if all conditions are right, the L3’s develop in the skin for three to four months (to the L5 stage) before making their way into your dog’s blood. But your dog still isn’t doomed. Step 6: Only if the dog’s immune system doesn’t rid the dog of these worms do the heartworms develop to adulthood. Step 7: It takes approximately six months for the surviving larvae to achieve maturity. At this point, the adult heartworms may produce babies if there are both males and females, but the kiddies will die unless a mosquito carrying L3’s intervenes. Otherwise, the adults will live several years then die. In summation, a particular species of mosquito must bite a dog infected with circulating L1 heartworm babies, must carry the babies to stage L3 and then must bite your dog . The adult worms and babies will eventually die off in the dog unless your dog is bitten again! Oh, and one more thing. Heartworms Development Requires Sustained Day & Night Weather Above 57˚F In Step 4 above I wrote that heartworm larvae develop “if the temperature is right.” The University of Pennsylvania Vet School (in a study funded by Merial) found: “Development in the mosquito is temperature dependent, requiring approximately two weeks of temperature at or above 27C (80F). Below a threshold temperature of 14C (57F), development cannot occur, and the cycle will be halted. As a result, transmission is limited to warm months, and duration of the transmission season varies geographically.” Knight and Lok agree: “In regions where average daily temperatures remain at or below about 62˚F (17˚ C) from late fall to early spring, insufficient heat accumulates to allow maturation of infective larvae in the intermediate host [the mosquito], precluding transmission of the parasite.” The Washington State University vet school reports that laboratory studies show that maturation of the worms requires “the equivalent of a steady 24-hour daily temperature in excess of 64°F (18°C) for approximately one month.” In other words, it has to be warm day AND night or development is retarded even if the average temperature is sufficiently warm. They add, that at 80° F, “10 to 14 days are required for development of microfilariae to the infective stage.” Jerold Theis, DVM, PhD, says, “If the mean monthly temperature is only a few degrees above 14 degrees centigrade [57 degrees F] it can take so many days for infective larvae to develop that the likelihood of the female mosquito living that long is remote.” I have never found this temperature-dependent information on a website promoting “preventatives,” but only in more scholarly works not easily accessed by the public. There is, as far as I can find, only one mention of temperature on the Heartworm Society canine heartworm page and none in the Merck/Merial Veterinary Manual site or Merial’s heartworm video — even though Merial funded the UPenn study. The Society also reports, “Factors affecting the level of risk of heartworm infection include the climate (temperature, humidity), the species of mosquitoes in the area, presence of mosquito breeding areas and presence of animal reservoirs (such as infected dogs or coyotes).” A Heartworm Society news release states: “By giving heartworm prevention every month, forgetful pet owners will have their pets protected when they need it most.” But doesn’t that also mean they get it when they need it least? Or need it not at all? Are you a “forgetful” owner? In this part of my heartworm series, we’ll discusses informed decision-making, and suggests ways, if you want them, to limit or eliminate heartworm drugs. I am a researcher and holistic health advocate, not a vet. Please learn the facts then discuss with your vet the appropriate course given your dog’s location, lifestyle, travel schedule, health, climate and the time of year. Expect an open-mind and respect from your vet, or find another vet. Just as with vaccination, “one size fits all” is outdated, profit-driven, lazy medicine. Take a look at the map above, courtesy of the Heartworm Society. Part 1 of this article demonstrated that transmission is heat and mosquito dependent. As expected, dark areas of the map, which show the most heartworm cases per clinic, are found in the hot, humid Southeastern US, especially the Atlantic and Gulf coasts and Mississippi Delta. Don’t let the map scare you. If published seasonally, map colors would pale significantly during cool months. Also remember that you’re seeing generalities, not specifics. A clinic near a rural pond will likely have many cases while an urban clinic 15 miles away may have a much lower incidence. Maps are general. Determine your own microclimate. Ask your vet how many cases of heartworm infection he/she treated in the past year. Also ask if he/she treats all positive cases, or just those with advanced infestation. If the vet doesn’t keep detailed records, that should tell you something. Conservative start/stop maps from heartworm researchers Drs. David Knight and James Lok (in “Seasonality of Heartworm Infections and Implications for Chemoprophylaxis”) show only two areas requiring year round heartworm meds: the southernmost areas of Florida and Texas. Houston, New Orleans and similar areas are shown requiring meds for 9 months. Other states range from 3-7 months. The Drs. wrote: “For nearly 80% of the states, the potential for heartworm transmission is limited to 6 months or less.” Does Year Round Medicating Bring Extra Protection? Applying suncreen at night is useless. So is taking heartworm medication when climate conditions prevent transmission. Only a small percentage of climes permit year-round transmission. Everyone else is unnecessarily subsidizing drug companies and “preventatives” sellers and, more importantly, exposing their dog to unnecessary risks. Two exceptions: 1) “Forgetful” and irresponsible pet parents who won’t begin the medication on time or build their dog’s natural immunity might want to medicate year round, although that means they have to remember to give meds every month. 2) If your dog contracts heartworms within a few years of beginning medication … and you can show you gave meds year round … and your dog had the required blood tests (2 or 3), you may benefit a little financially because drug companies will pay for dog’s treatment. Are Heartworm Preventatives Safe? You’ve seen those scary photos of worm-strangled hearts, right? Shouldn’t you give meds year round just in case? Isn’t safe better than sorry? But is that harmless little pill or yummie medical “brownie” really safe? No drug is completely free of risk and adverse reactions. I can find no long-term studies regarding cancer risks and organ damage for dogs receiving heartworm insecticides year round (or even for a few months). Such a study would be difficult to conduct and very expensive. Who would fund such a study — or publish any negative findings? One clue to the possibility of adverse reactions should be label warnings: call your doctor immediately if ingested; keep away from children; wash your hands immediately after use…. How can medication be good for dogs but so dangerous for you? Another question: is your dog healthy enough for these medications? The “Heartworm Prevention” page of the American Animal Hospital Association states: “Healthy kidneys and normal liver functions are essential in metabolizing most medications.” Many dogs, including my Jiggy, do not have healthy organ function. I wonder how many unhealthy animals are nevertheless on meds? Adverse Reactions to Heartworm Medications With any drug, study FDA and manufacturer information before medicating. These adverse reactions have been reported to the FDA by manufacturers. Terms you might not understand include ataxia (gross lack of coordination of muscle movements), pruritus (itchy dermatologic condition), urticaria (hives), mydriasis (excessive pupil dilation), and erythema (skin redness). Other terms should be self-explanatory. HEARTGARD® and TriHeartPlus® (ivermectin): Depression/lethargy, vomiting, anorexia, diarrhea, mydriasis, ataxia staggering, convulsions and hypersalivation. INTERCEPTOR® (milbemycin oxime) reports the above reactions plus weakness. Sentinel (milbemycin oxime) reports vomiting, depression/lethargy, pruritus, urticaria, diarrhea, anorexia, skin congestion, ataxia, convulsions, hypersalivation and weakness. REVOLUTION® (selamectin), Topical Parasiticide For Dogs and Cats: pre-approval reactions of vomiting, loose stool or diarrhea with or without blood, anorexia, lethargy, salivation, tachypnea, and muscle tremors. Post-approval experience included the above plus pruritis, urticaria, erythema, ataxia, fever, and rare reports of death and seizures in dogs. Proheart 6® : severe allergic reactions (anaphylaxis): facial swelling, itching, difficulty breathing, collapse; lethargy (sluggishness); not eating or losing interest in food; any change in activity level; seizures; vomiting and/or diarrhea (with and without blood); weight loss; pale gums, increased thirst or urination, weakness, bleeding, bruising; rare instances of death. This product was voluntarily withdrawn from the market in 2004 because of deaths but has been reintroduced. For any other brand, research the product or its active ingredient before even thinking of administering it. Also, never give any meds without first learning if any vitamins, minerals, herbal products or drugs interact negatively with the medication. Note age restrictions. Most importantly, learn what symptoms alert you to a reaction. Important note: Studies have indicated that certain dogs of the herding breeds are more sensitive to the effects of ivermectin (Heartgard and others) administered at elevated dose levels due to the MDR1 gene. Dog breeds that may be affected include Australian Shepherd, Australian Shepherd Mini, Border Collie, Collie and English Shepherd. Beware any website or person professing the absolute safety of any medication. I’d like adverse reactions for pet medications to be included in all TV ads, as they are for meds for humans — but I don’t expect it. Reporting Adverse Events: Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect a reaction to this or any other drug. Discuss alternatives and treatment and make sure the reaction is recorded in your dog’s file. The AVMA says : “… notify the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) by contacting the manufacturer. The FDA requires that manufacturers of FDA-approved drugs forward adverse event reports to the agency.” Is the fox is guarding the hen house? Ask your vet to report the reaction, then follow up and make sure your vet did it. Under-reporting is common. (An estimated 99% of adverse reactions go unreported according to the FDA.) Click here for FDA reporting instructions. Tests for Heartworm Infection Heartworms can, and should, be detected by a simple blood test before administering medication. The antigen test detects an adult female worms at least 5-8 months old. The Merck Veterinary Manual says: “The antigen detection test is the preferred diagnostic method for asymptomatic dogs or when seeking verification of a suspected HW infection.” Microfilariae (babies) in the blood are detected by a different blood test. These show exposure, but do not detect female adults (potential breeders). Antibody tests (as opposed to antigen tests) are not preferred because they indicate only that the dog has been exposed to heartworms at some time in his or her life, even if the worms subsequently died. If you plan to give “preventatives,” test before beginning medication, preferably within a month of when daily temperatures consistently climb above 57˚ F. Read more at the Heartworm Society Serology section. If you’re not going to use meds, homeopathic veterinarian Jeff Feinman wrote me that he advises semi-annual testing when not using preventatives. My own vet, Tamara Hebbler, agrees. Testing twice yearly helps you catch disease early when it’s easier to treat. Dr. Martin Goldstein in The Nature Of Animal Healing says: “Only a small percentage of dogs who get heartworm die of it, especially if they’re routinely tested twice yearly for early detection. Even in untreated dogs, after a period of uncomfortable symptoms, the adult worms die….” Did you know that the latest canine movie star “Benji” was found in a shelter, infected with heartworms? Benji was treated successfully and went onto canine fame and a healthy life. Heartworms, like other parasites, don’t become life threatening quickly or inevitably. It takes at least 5 months, and more often 7-8 months, for a baby to grow to a reproducing adult — presuming the dog’s immune system doesn’t intervene. Also, adult males and females must both survive to breed. Important Note If your dog’s antigen test comes back positive, do a second test to verify results. Holistic vet Tamara Hebbler suggests that before you rush into treatment with harsh, poisonous drugs, you should get a cardiac ultrasound to determine the extent of the infestation. Heartworms, like other parasites, often live with their hosts without ever causing a dangerous problem. It’s quite common for animals in the wild to live entire lives with heartworms. (If worms always killed dogs, they’d soon run out of hosts.) Unless heartworms are re-introduced by another infected mosquito, the adults and their babies will eventually die off. When Should You Start Administering Meds — If You’re Going To? Remember, you kill heartworm babies after the fact. You can only “prevent” them by avoiding mosquitoes. (You can also kill them with a healthy immune system.) This means starting meds 30-45 days after the weather warms and mosquitoes appear. Also, Washington State University warns, “If your pet travels to heartworm areas, prevention needs to be administered within 30 days of exposure to infected mosquitoes. Adult dogs (older than 6 mos.) need to be tested before starting preventative.” Dr. Margo Roman, an integrative vet from in Massachusetts, documentary film maker and Founder of the first-ever Integrative Health Pet Expo in Massachusetts this fall, tells me she begins medication six weeks after sees mosquitoes. This allows 2 weeks for the microfilariae (baby heartworms) to mature inside a mosquito to the infective stage and be transferred to a dog, plus 30 days additional days covered by the medication working backwards to kill those babies. When Should You Stop Heartworm “Preventatives”? Dr. Roman recommends stopping meds after the first frost for people living in an area with cold winters. In other areas, vets recommend stopping 30-45 days after weather is consistently below 57 F degrees and you see no mosquitoes. What Brand Should You Use? Consumers often think that “preventing” as many parasites as possible with one product is a bargain — and ultimately safer for the dog. But why expose your dog to additional, unnecessary toxins? Most holistic vets will tell you to protect against only those pests (and diseases) your dog is likely to encounter. To see which products do what, see the “preventatives” comparison chart at Veterinary Partner. ***Low Dose “Safeheart” Medication Approved by the FDA More than a decade ago — on June 4, 1998 — the FDA approved a 1/5 dose version of Interceptor heartworm medication, a product called Safeheart. This expensive field trial was conducted and the dosage approved — but inexplicably the product was never marketed in the U.S. To duplicate the Safeheart heartworm “prevention” method — which you can’t buy — you have to split the Interceptor dose into quarters. Check with Interceptor first, and ask your pharmacist or vet how to do this accurately. The recommended once-a-month dosage is 0.1 mg of milbemycin oxime per kg of body weight (0.05 mg/lb). (Interceptor’s regular dose of dosage is 0.5 mg milbemycin oxime per kg of body weight.) Note: At this dose, only heartworms will be treated with the Safeheart method, not other worms or fleas. How Often Should You Give Meds? In his important book Homeopathic Care For Cats and Dogs, veterinarian Don Hamilton says of heartworm: “In dogs the “monthly” preventives are effective if given at six week intervals, and possibly even at seven- or eight week intervals….” Author/veterinarians Richard Pitcairn and Allen Schoen told us essentially the same thing when we were researching our book Scared Poopless. If you opt for this “less is more” treatment with “preventatives,” mark dosing dates on your calendar and don’t miss them. The vets at Holistic Vet Center say: “… monthly heartworm preventatives are actually 100% effective if given every 45 days and 99% effective if given every 60 days.” I presume that the monthly schedule was designed for the ease of remembering when to give meds. However … giving meds monthly rather than every 45 days requires more doses — and offers more opportunities for adverse reactions. For someone medicating year-round, that’s 4 fewer doses per year. Are There Natural Heartworm Preventatives? Mosquito control is the ultimate natural preventative. No mosquitoes, no heartworms. Control mosquitoes by eliminating standing water and staying indoors at dusk and dawn. Use bug spray (marked safe and non-toxic for animals and children). Buy bug zappers. (All these are good ideas for human protection from mosquito-borne diseases as well.) What do I do? Well, for me, the choice was easy. I live in So. California. I rarely see mosquitoes. My dogs spend most of their time indoors. Nights are invariably cool. With the advice of two local vets, I decided to protect my own dogs (both of whom have health challenges) against the toxicity of heartworm “preventatives” rather than protect against an unlikely infection. I use non-toxic alternatives like mosquito control, an excellent diet and no drugs unless they’re absolutely unavoidable. I increase safety by testing blood twice yearly. I haven’t used “preventatives” for five or six years and my dogs remain heartworm free. This is my personal decision. I am not a vet. If I lived in a mosquito-heavy area, however, I might do much the same. I would determine local risks and would consult a local holistic vet to get help preventing heartworms naturally. I would control mosquitoes and test blood twice or more yearly. Someone who had “outside dogs,” and who was the nervous about heartworms, might also use heartworm meds or the Safeheart method during the peak heartworm months of July and August, but only if their dogs had healthy kidneys and livers. They should make any decision with a knowledgeable vet. Dr. Will Falconer, a holistic vet certified in acupuncture and homeopathy, has written an e-book called “Drug-Free Heartworm Prevention.” This 50+ page, well-written e-book is delivered electronically. I do not profit from sales of this book although I was given a complementary review copy. Drs. Richard Pitcairn and Martin Goldstein have also written about heartworms in their books. Most importantly, do not make decisions out of fear. Don’t let anyone, even your vet, intimidate or ridicule you. Be an educated consumer and a rabid advocate for your dog’s health.

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Foundations of Healthy Pet Nutrition

The foundation for any healthy food plan for your animal companion includes: A nutritious Whole Food Diet A quality Vitamin/Mineral Supplement Digestive Enzymes Probiotics Healthy Fatty Acids Whole Food Diet In our opinion, a whole food diet is the most important part of the foundation for health and longevity. A diet consisting of unprocessed whole foods is rich in vitamins and minerals and associated nutrients, many of which science hasn’t even identified yet, that work synergistically in the manner nature intended and the body is designed to use. How can corporations and food scientists duplicate what nature originally created? The answer is they can’t! The nutrients in commercial diets are often degraded, molecularly changed or completely lost as a result of processing, which usually involves high heat and pressure. "Ninety per cent of the diseases known to man are caused by cheap foodstuffs. You are what you eat." -nutritionist Victor Lindlahr We focus on “species appropriate” diets. For carnivores that includes a raw diet consisting of muscle meat, organs and bones, preferably from human-grade, antibiotic and hormone-free, humanely-raised sources that have access to the outdoors, along with nutritious vegetables and fruits and minimal, if any, whole grains and deriving all, or the majority of their nutrition, from whole food sources. If you can’t, or do not wish to, feed a raw food diet you should focus on the highest-quality processed food diet you can afford that derives the majority of its nutrition from whole-food sources. For most birds a species appropriate diet would consist of sprouted seeds and grains, a premium seed mix with human-grade ingredients, a minimally processed, all-natural pellet diet, and a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. For rabbits and other small pets the diet should consist primarily of a high-fiber hay (such as timothy), fresh vegetables, minimal fruits, and supplemented with the highest quality, all-natural pellet or seed diet (depending on the species) that you can find. Vitamin/Mineral Supplement Even the best quality diet benefits from the addition of a high-quality vitamin and mineral supplement. Because of agricultural practices, soil has become depleted of important minerals and shipping and storage often leave our fruits and vegetables depleted of nutritious vitamins. Research shows that the fruits and vegetables we enjoy today contain a fraction of the nutrition they did only several decades ago! In addition, contaminates and pollutants found everywhere today place an additional heavy burden on the body. In an attempt to make their foods nutritionally viable and make up for the destruction of nutrients during processing, many commercially prepared diets add synthetic vitamins –often incorporating a third of the ingredient panel or more! Synthetic vitamins do not provide the same benefits as nutrients found in their natural form because they differ molecularly so the body does not recognize them and they are not easily utilized. You may also find these synthetic products in powder, tablet or capsule form to be added to your animal’s diet. They are usually inexpensive, with good reason, and testing has often shown them to be contaminated and/or deficient in what is advertised on the label. Research is beginning to show the negative health consequences of consuming isolated synthetic vitamins and minerals and we are sure you will be hearing more about this in the future. We focus on whole food vitamin and mineral supplements, which consist primarily of nutritious foods in a natural form that your animal’s body can easily utilize. These supplements are rich in natural forms of vitamins and minerals, enzymes, coenzymes, phytochemicals and other substances, many of which science has yet to discover, that work together synergistically to provide your animal with balanced, easily assimilated nutrition. We recommend you use a variety of products and rotate so your animal companion receives a full range of balanced nutrition over time. Digestive Enzymes Digestive enzymes are the functional proteins that assist with the digestion of foods and the assimilation of nutrients. Without them the body, particularly the pancreas, must work harder to secrete its own enzymes and often malabsorption issues result. Raw and fermented foods contain the live enzymes needed for digestion so your animal receives the benefit of all available nutrients. However, once a food is processed at a temperature above 115 degrees, all enzymes are destroyed. This pertains to all kibble and canned dog and cat foods and pellet diets for birds and small pets (except cold-processed pellets). In nature, an animal’s diet is designed to provide a large majority of the enzymes from raw plant matter, sprouted seeds or the contents of an animal’s stomach (raw green tripe) in the case of carnivores. This is very important for the health of an animal, especially as an animal ages and the body produces less enzymes. We recommend the addition of enzymes with every meal. Doses can be reduced by half when feeding a primarily raw food diet. Fresh sprouted seeds and grains and raw fruits and vegetables can be used to supply birds and small pets with a rich supply of living enzymes. The more common digestive enzymes include: Proteases - aid in digestion and utilization of protein & other nutrients Amylase - digests carbohydrates and starch Lipase - digests fats Bromelain - a protease derived from pineapple Papain - a protease derived from papaya Cellulase & Hemicellulase - help the body break down and derive nutrients from plant cellulose Probiotics Probiotics are beneficial bacteria, the “good” or “friendly” bacteria that populate the entire digestive tract, and play an important role in digestion, nutrient assimilation, the production of certain vitamins and immune system function. These good bacteria can be depleted for a variety of reasons including poor diet, antibiotic and steroid use, NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), surgery, medications, acute and chronic diarrhea, chlorinated water, artificial ingredients and preservatives found in poor quality foods, toxins found in food and the environment, and stress. Examples of beneficial bacteria include various species of Lactobacillus, Acidophilus, Bacillus, Streptococcus, Enterococcus, Bifidobacterium, and beneficial yeast such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae. We recommend providing your animal companion with a probiotic supplement everyday, and doubling the dosage for two weeks following any antibiotic use. This will insure that a steady supply of beneficial bacteria is provided to replace those lost and ensure the colonies of “good” bacteria out-compete any “bad” or pathogenic bacteria. Make sure a supplement containing a variety of beneficial organisms is used, not just acidophilus for instance, or an imbalance will result. Essential Fatty Acids Essential Fatty Acids (commonly called EFAs) are fat based nutrients that every mammal needs to maintain healthy function and structure of smooth muscle organs and systems (heart/reproductive/digestive), to protect and build liver cells and to maintain healthy skin, coat and joint tissue. Scientifically speaking, when the term “essential fatty acid” is used it is referring to fatty acids that cannot be created by the body and must be obtained through the diet. The only two true essential fatty acids are an omega 3 polyunsaturated fatty acid called Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA) and an omega 6 polyunsaturated fatty acid called Linoleic Acid (LA) from which all other fatty acids can be created within the body. Many of us focus on two omega 3 fatty acids called eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) because of their anti-inflammatory health benefits. You may be wondering why we recommend EPA and DHA instead of the essential fatty acids ALA and LA since the body should just synthesize them anyway. Well, in a perfect world that would be true and you could just take the essential fatty acids and the body would produce all the rest. However, everything does not always work perfectly and often an animal’s body does not produce enough enzymes for the efficient conversion of all the other fatty acids. This deficiency can be caused by genetics, age or a liver problem. EPA, DHA and other anti-inflammatory omega 3 fatty acids take on more importance when taking into account the large amount of pro-inflammatory omega 6 fatty acids obtained through diets rich in grains or from meat sources fed a primarily grain-based diet (as is most of our meat in this country) or free-range meat sources finished on feed lots. You can reduce the need for supplementation by providing your dog or cat with true free-range meat from New Zealand as is found in K-9 Natural and Feline Natural raw pet foods. The ratio of omega 6’s to omega 3’s in a typical processed diet far exceeds the proper ratio range of 1:1 to 4:1 and requires the supplementing of omega 3 fatty acids. For most mammals we recommend supplementing with fish oil, rich in EPA and DHA, for healthy anti-inflammatory benefits for the skin, lungs, heart and joints. The majority of our products feature non-predatory fish species that contain less dioxin than salmon oils and are sustainably harvested and certified free of heavy metals and other toxins. It is also important that the fish oil contains natural vitamin E as an antioxidant because polyunsaturated oils oxidize quickly and can deplete the body of this important vitamin. Since fish oils can thin blood and reduce blood clot formation, speak with your veterinarian about reducing or eliminating these from the diet prior to any surgery. It appears that linoleic acid (omega 6) is the primary essential fatty acid for birds. They can receive plenty of this fatty acid from a diet that contains some seeds and grains (approximately 10% of the diet), preferably soaked or sprouted. In addition, your birds should receive some alpha linolenic acid (omega 3) from flax seeds and nuts, such as walnuts. A lot to know, but you have us! Please feel free to ask for assistance from The Pet Health and Nutrition Center Staff. We are happy to help you achieve the highest possible level of health and happiness for your animals using a holistic approach to wellness.

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Dictionary of Pet Food and Product Additives

A Artificial Flavor - Means any substance, the function of which is to impart flavor, which is not derived from a spice, fruit or fruit juice, vegetable or vegetable juice, edible yeast, herb, bark, bud, root, leaf or similar plant material, meat, fish, poultry, eggs, dairy products, or fermentation products thereof. Furthermore, most of the chemical compounds in artificial flavors are not recognized as food by our digestive systems and are not metabolized. That's why you won't find them listed in the Nutrition Facts chart; they are not nutrients. To make an artificial flavor, a flavor chemist (called a flavorist) in a laboratory has to create a molecule that mimics the molecule in a food that provides its flavor or select and blend the right chemical compounds in the right amounts to simulate the natural flavor. This is often done much more cheaply than trying to extract the flavor from a natural food in the quantity needed. Ascorbic Acid - A water-soluble sugar acid with antioxidant properties commonly known as vitamin C. Ascorbic acid is found in plants, animals, and single-cell organisms. All living animals either make it, eat it, or die from scurvy due to lack of it. Reptiles and older orders of birds make ascorbic acid in their kidneys. Recent orders of birds and most mammals make ascorbic acid in their livers where the enzyme L-gulonolactone oxidase is required to convert glucose to ascorbic acid. Humans, guinea pigs, and some other primates are not able to make L-gulonolactone oxidase because of a genetic defect and are therefore unable to make ascorbic acid in their livers so it must be provided by their diet. B Bisphenol A - Found in polycarbonateplastic type 3 & type 7 (located in the recycling symbol on the container). A hormone-disrupting chemical (endocrine disruptor)linked to Down's syndrome, early onset ofpuberty, obesity, hyperactivity, and breastand prostate cancer. Almost all plastic babybottles are made from polycarbonate plastic,as well as popular reusable water bottles(like some Nalgene brand bottles) and largewater cooler jugs. In addition, a resin madewith bisphenol A coats the inside of aluminumand tin food cans. Bisphenol A leachesreadily into food and liquids. There is no lawprohibiting its use, and currently, very fewmanufacturers have taken any action to stopusing polycarbonate plastic in their products. With the headlines in 2008 in which several governments issued reports questioning its safety that may change. C Cellulose - An organic compound that forms the structural component of the primary cell wall, or fiber, of green plants. Cellulose is not digestible by mammals, with the exception of ruminants, and is often referred to as 'dietary fiber' or 'roughage', acting as a water soluble bulking agent for feces. Powdered cellulose (Microcrystalline cellulose) is also used as an inactive filler in tablets and as a thickener and stabilizer in processed foods. We are not aware of any toxicity issues. Cetyl Alcohol - AKA Palmityl Alcohol - A solid organic compound whose name "cetyl" derives from the whale oil (Latin: cetus) from which it was first isolated. No longer primarily produced from whale oil, but instead either as an end-product of the petroleum industry, or produced from vegetable oils such as palm oil and coconut oil. Production of cetyl alcohol from palm oil gives rise to one of its alternative names, palmityl alcohol. Used in the cosmetic industry as a surfactant in shampoos, or as an emollient, emulsifier or thickening agent in the manufacture of skin creams and lotions as well as a lubricant for nuts and bolts. It has a low toxicity for both skin and ingestion and is sometimes used as a laxative. Can act as a skin irritant but has a "Low Hazard" rating of '1' (out of '10') at the Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database. Chemical Preservative - Any chemical that, when added to food, tends to prevent or retard its deterioration and spoilage. Examples include substances such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin and propylene glycol. These chemicals are also known as antioxidants because they prevent the oxidation of primarily fats and oils which go rancid quickly when exposed to oxygen. Many are linked with liver and kidney problems as well as increasing the risks of various cancers and tumors. Dramatically increase product shelf-life. Chicken - The clean combination of flesh and skin with or without accompanying bone, derived from the parts or whole carcasses of chicken exclusive of feathers, heads, feet and entrails. Whole chicken is preferable to meal because the source and quality of the product is more easily determined by concerning manufacturers. Because of the assumed higher quality and the higher moisture content that requires more chicken as opposed to drier, more concentrated chicken meal, chicken is much more expensive. Chicken Meal - The dry, rendered product from a combination of clean flesh and skin with accompanying bone, derived from whole carcasses of chicken, exclusive of feathers, heads, feet and entrails except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices. Basically, meal is dehydrated meat and a concentrated source of protein. As long as the species is defined, and not just “meat meal”, it is not necessarily inferior to whole, fresh meat. However, the source does matter because some product can have excessive bones or fat, come from chicken that has spoiled, be from low quality or diseased animals or can be poorly processed at excessively high temperatures that can ruin valuable amino acids. What source of chicken meal do you think those inexpensive supermarket or big box store brands use? Manufacturers use chicken meal because it provides a higher concentration of nutrients than whole chicken at a lower cost. It is never suitable for human consumption because it is rendered. Citric acid - Primarily used as a flavoring agent to add an acidic or sour taste to foods and drinks and a natural preservative. When used in certain household products its buffering action helps to control Ph. When used in soaps and shampoos its chelating effect (bonds with minerals and metals) helps soften water, allowing products to produce a foam and work better. Because of citric acid’s chelating ability, it can help to take certain minerals with citric acid (for example calcium supplements in the form of calcium citrate), since the body will more easily digest chelated minerals. Can be a skin and eye irritant and in high concentrations can damage hair and tooth enamel. Stomach sensitivity to citric acid can occur in some people. Occurs naturally in fruits and vegetables with the highest concentrations found in citrus fruits such as lemons and limes. However, today the majority of citric acid is derived from certain strains of mold fed an inexpensive sugary solution such as hydrolyzed cornstarch. More than 50% is produced in China. Rates a 4 out of 10 in the Skin Deep Cosmetics Safety Data Base and its use is restricted in Canadian cosmetics because of its skin, eye and lung irritant effects. Corn Gluten Meal - A byproduct of corn processing used for animal feed and corn sweeteners and corn syrup for the human food industry. Primarily used as a low-cost protein source for pet foods. Studies have shown that animals fed a diet consisting exclusively of corn gluten meal as the protein source had greater muscle loss in 10 weeks than dogs fed a similar diet containing chicken protein! Other studies have reported that corn gluten meal was not as digestible, reduced calcium and magnesium availability and did not improve urinary predisposition to crystal formation relative to meat meal. The only way this cheap protein source can be of any benefit to animals is when combined with meat protein, and unfortunately there is usually very little high-quality meat protein in the foods that use these types of ingredients! As a final thought, 1.35 million tons of corn gluten meal is currently consumed by the livestock market, so when you and your animals consume factory farmed or conventionally raised meats, you are consuming a lot of corn gluten meal. That is why we always recommend grass-fed or free-range meats and eggs as the healthiest and most nutritious protein sources (though you have to be careful of the source because beef can be “finished” on grain feed lots)! Cyanuric Acid - A non-protein nitrogen (NPN), a term used in animal nutrition to refer collectively to components including urea, biuret, and ammonia, which are not proteins but can be converted into proteins by microbes in a ruminant’s (ex. cow's) stomach. Due to their lower cost, compared to plant and animal proteins, their inclusion in a diet can result in economic gain, but at too high levels cause a depression in growth and possible ammonia toxicity (microbes convert NPN to ammonia first before using that to make protein.) NPN can also be used to artificially raise crude protein values in pet foods, which are measured based on nitrogen content, as protein is about 16% nitrogen, but, for example, urea is 47% nitrogen. The source of NPN is typically a chemical feed additive, chicken waste or cattle manure. D Decyl glucoside - See Decyl Polyglucose. Decyl Polyglucose - Derived from corn, coconut & palm kernel oils by reacting cornstarch glucose with a c6-c16 natural fatty alcohol. It can also be described as being made from corn, glucose & starch. Corn supplies the carbohydrates which are converted with fatty alcohols from native oils, such as coconut or palm kernel oil, into alkyl polyglycosides. Decyl Polyglucose is considered to be an effective, gentle, cleaner with no reported adverse effects and is fully biodegradable. The significance of its considered safety is appreciated when you realize that most of the cosmetic ingredients used for the same purpose such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) are believed to cause health problems. It is used as a mild non-ionic primary or secondary surfactant in cosmetic formulas including baby shampoo and in products for individuals with a sensitive skin. Many natural personal care companies use this cleanser because it is plant-derived, biodegradable, and gentle. It is considered safe but has virtually no safety testing. E F G H I Imidazolidinyl urea - An antimicrobial preservative used in cosmetics. It is chemically related to diazolidinyl urea which is used in the same way. Imidazolidinyl urea acts as a formaldehyde releaser. Some people have a contact allergy to imidazolidinyl urea causing dermatitis. May be derived from animals when excreted from urine and other bodily fluids. Is a human immune system toxicant and skin toxicant. Has a "Moderate Hazard" rating of '5' (out of '10') at Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database. K L M Microcrystalline cellulose - Cellulose derived from wood pulp. Because it is naturally occurring and thought to be stable, safe and physiologically inert (odorless and tasteless) it is typically used as an excipient (inactive substance used as a carrier for the active ingredients) in the formulation of tablets and capsules. An indigestible dietary fiber (99.5% dietary fiber) it works well as an anti-caking agent, a binding agent, due to its excellent compression properties, a disintegrant, so tablets dissolve quickly to increase the biological availability of a medicine and as a lubricant (seperating agent) to aid in the tableting procedure. GRAS. Magnesium Silicate - A silicate salt of magnesium used as an anti-caking agent and consisting of a fine, white, odorless and tasteless powder known as talc (finely powdered native magnesium silicate). Gives a slippery sensation to powders and creams. Prevalent in many vitamins, powders, makeups and creams. There may be links to it being a cancer-causing agent upon ingestion because of the high incidence of stomach cancer among the Japanese who like their rice treated with talc. Several studies have also established preliminary links between talc and pulmonary issues, lung cancer, skin cancer and ovarian cancer. This is a major concern considering talc's widespread commercial and household use. In 1993, a US National Toxicology Program report found that cosmetic grade talc caused tumours in animals, even though it contained no asbestos-like fibres. Scientists have been aware of the toxicity of talc since the late 1960s, and in 1971 researchers found particles of talc embedded in 75 percent of the ovarian tumors studied. However, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) considers non-asbestiform talc, that is talc which does not contain potentially carcinogenic asbestiform amphibole fibers, to be generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for use in cosmetics. Further study has been recommended because ingestion causing kidney damage in dogs has been reported. Fibrous magnesium silicate, AKA asbestos and chrysotiis, is a chemically inert, white to gray powder used as an extender and/or a filler for high temperature resistance. Both Pleural Mesothelioma and Peritoneum Mesothelioma are primarily caused by the inhalation or exposure to asbestos, an incombustible fibrous mineral of impure magnesium silicate used in various industrial products. GRAS. Magnesium Stearate - A soft, tasteless, odorless white powder insoluble in water. This type of magnesium is the form that manufacturers use in vitamins. The stearate is a very inexpensive synthetic "salt" derived from stearic acid. Magnesium lactate is how it is found in whole foods and "natural vitamins". Because it is widely regarded as harmless, it is often used as a filling and lubricating agent (preventing ingredients from sticking to equipment) in the manufacture of medical tablets and capsules and as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics. When used as a filling agent in the manufacture of capsules and tablets, such as vitamins, the source of this ingredient is typically bovine. However, there is an increasing number of vegetarian options in which the product specifically indicates it contains magnesium stearate from vegetable sources. Stearic acid, from which stearates are derived has been shown to be a skin irritant, sensitizer for allergic people and has caused tumors in experimental animals. A bit of trivia - magnesium stearate is a major component of "bathtub rings". When produced by soap and hard water, magnesium stearate and calcium stearate both form a white solid insoluble in water, and are collectively known as scum. GRAS. Melamine - A high-nitrogen containing compound added by Chinese firms to wheat flour to mimic higher protein wheat gluten and rice protein concentrate, thereby avoiding the processing necessary to extract the wheat gluten. What people did not realize, and research has found evidence of, is that cyanuric acid, found in cattle feed and lower-quality pet foods, and used to artificially raise protein levels, when combined with melamine forms extremely insoluble crystals, leading to the formation of kidney stones and potentially causing kidney failure and death in animals. Most melamine today is derived from urea. See Cyanuric Acid above. N Natural – A product containing no artificial ingredient or added color and is only minimally processed (a process which does not fundamentally alter the raw product) may be labeled natural.” Most foods labeled natural are not subject to government controls beyond the regulations and heath codes. The official AAFCO definition for "natural" as the term relates to pet food is: A feed or ingredient derived solely from plant, animal or mined sources, either in its unprocessed state or having been subjected to physical processing, heat processing, rendering, purification extraction, hydrolysis, enzymolysis or fermentation, but not having been produced by or subject to a chemically synthetic process and not containing any additives or processing aids that are chemically synthetic except in amounts as might occur unavoidably in good manufacturing practices. The committee suggested that an exception be made for synthetic vitamin and mineral additives as long as the product is not used as a dietary supplement, so even in a “natural” pet food there still may be synthetic chemicals. Natural Flavor - A flavor-enhancing substance made from the chemical extracts of natural sources (animals, plants, etc.). Not often realized is the fact that all flavoring additives, natural or artificial, are made by humans. More directly, a natural flavor is defined as a substance extracted, distilled or otherwise derived from plant or animal matter, either directly from the matter itself or after it has been roasted, heated or fermented and whose significant function in food is flavoring rather than nutritional. Note also that a natural flavor need not come from the very food it is flavoring. For example, a flavor chemical derived from chicken -- and it need not taste like chicken -- can be used to flavor a can of beef pet food. "Natural" does not mean it is not a harmful food additive. "Natural" only means that the natural flavor ingredient originated from a natural source. For example, "natural" can mean a type of isolated natural chemical found in fruits, vegetables or meat that may not be good for you and even toxic or a food additive such as MSG which has been found to be a dangerous food additive ingredient for many of the people who consume this so-called natural additive. Why do companies hide ingredients under "natural flavors"? It's considered a way of preserving the product's identity & uniqueness. Sort of like a "secret recipe" - they worry that if people knew what the flavorings were, then someone would be able to duplicate their product. Furthermore, most of the chemical compounds in natural flavors are not recognized as food by our digestive systems and are not metabolized. That's why you won't find them listed in the Nutrition Facts chart; they are not nutrients. Here is something that confuses even me: the vanilla bean derives the majority of its natural flavor from its content of about 2 percent vanillin, known to chemists by its nickname, 4-hydroxy-3- methoxy benzaldehyde. If these natural flavors are extracted into alcohol, the product may legally be labeled Pure Vanilla Extract, that is, as a "natural" flavoring. But if the product contains synthetic vanillin, which can be made by any of several processes, it must be labeled Imitation Vanilla Flavoring. But get this: If the synthetic vanillin was made not by combining chemicals in a laboratory but by allowing bacteria to ferment ferulic acid, a chemical obtained from corn or rice, it may be labeled Natural Vanilla Flavor because fermentation is a "natural" process. The vanillin obtained by both methods, however, is absolutely identical. So, this past Easter when I did not buy that chocolate with vanillin because I thought that it was an artificial flavor, was I right or wrong? Was that vanillin a natural isolate from the vanilla bean or synthetic vanillin? O P Palmityl Alcohol - See Cetyl Alcohol Phosphoric Acid – An inexpensive, colorless, odorless mineral acid made from phosphate rock. Used as a sequestering agent (a preservative that prevents physical or chemical changes) for rendered animal fat as well as an acidifier, emulsifier (allows unblendable substances to mix), antioxidant (prevents oxidation and discoloration) and flavoring agent. Concentrated solutions are irritating to the skin and mucous membranes. Potassium Chloride – A chemical compound composed of potassium and chlorine creating a odorless, colorless crystalline powder with a salty taste. The majority is used for making fertilizer, but in the food industry it is used as a sodium-free substitute for table salt, to replenish potassium and treat hypokalemia (low blood potassium levels). Side effects can include small intestinal ulcers and at higher doses gastrointestinal discomfort including nausea and vomiting, diarrhea and bleeding of the digestive tract can occur. Overdoses cause hyperkalemia which can lead to paresthesia, cardiac conduction blocks, fibrillation, arrhythmias, and sclerosis. Just for trivia - potassium chloride is also used as the third of a three drug combination in judicial execution through lethal injection. Phthalates - Used in many plastics,especially PVC products, including vinyl dog toys, as a softening agent to make the plastic flexible. Phthalates are a group of chemicals,some of which can disturb normal hormonal processes, called endocrine disruptors, often at low levels of exposure. In addition exposure to phthalates is linked to birth defects of the genitals, reproductive problems like altered levels of reproductive hormones in baby boys, early onset of puberty, liver and thyroid damage, testicular cancer and an increased breast cancer risk is also suspected. Q R Rendering - The process generally considered to convert waste animal material or animal byproducts into a more usable form, such as meat & bone meal or poultry byproduct meal, by simultaneously drying the material and separating the fat from the bone and protein. The material used generally comes from slaughterhouses but also includes restaurant grease and butcher shop trimmings, expired meat from grocery stores, the carcasses of euthanized and dead animals from animal shelters, zoos and veterinarians. Rendered products are not fit for human consumption and include products commonly found in pet foods such as meat meals, bone meal and animal fats. The source used for rendering is very important, as some higher quality dog foods can use rendering to produce what is considered to be a higher quality product such as chicken meal. S Sodium Citrate - Sometimes referred to as trisodium citrate, a sodium salt of citric acid. See citric acid for more information. Sodium Tripolyphosphate - The sodium salt of triphosphoric acid. Commonly used as a preservative in seafood, meats and pet foods as well as a food texturizer, builder and moisture retainer. Also act as a water softener allowing toothpaste, soap and other surfactants to work better. Moderately irritating to skin and mucous membranes and ingestion may cause violent purging. In the environment it is assimilated into the natural phosphorous cycle which contributes to the eutrophication of many fresh water systems resulting in an increase excessive plant growth and decay and further effects including lack of oxygen and severe reductions in water quality, fish, and other animal populations. Stearic Acid - Sometimers referred to as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that occurs in many animal and vegetable fats and oils. It is usually prepared synthetically from the hydrogenation of some unsaturated vegetable oils and is commonly a mix of stearic acid and palmitic acid, although purified stearic acid is also available. Commonly used in butter and vanilla flavorings, as a hardener in soaps, candies, candles and dietary supplements (also used here as a parting compound for tablet molds), as a softener for chewing gum and rubber and in many cosmetics to produce a pearly effect. Findings may indicate that stearic acid is less unhealthy than other saturated fatty acids but at the same time it is implicated as being a sensitizer for allergic people, a skin irritant and has caused tumors in experimental animals. GRAS. T Titanium Dioxide - Occurs naturally in minerals. Primarily used as a white pigment, opacifier (makes opaque) and a thickening agent. Because of its high refractive index and its strong UV light absorbing capabilities titanium dioxide is commonly found in sunscreens. Titanium dioxide appears to be relatively safe when applied to the skin and we could not find evidence of ill effects when taken internally. However, there is evidence of respiratory irritation, damage and cancer when exposed to dust or products that may be aerosolized (airborne). Triethanolamine (often abbreviated TEA) - An organic chemical compound used as a pH balancer, surfactant and emulsifier in cosmetic preparations and a variety of other products and uses. Gross pathology has been found in the gastrointestinal tract in fatally poisoned guinea pigs. It is an irritant and skin sensitizer and as with any "amines", it may have the potential to create nitrosamines (powerful carcinogens). Has a "High Hazard" rating of '7' (out of '10') at the Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database. Trisodium Citrate - Sometimes referred to as sodium citrate, a sodium salt of citric acid. See citric acid for more information. U Urea - The major nitrogenous end product of protein metabolism, and the chief nitrogenous component of the urine of mammals and some other species. Used in fertilizers as a convenient source of nitrogen and as a non-protein nitrogen (NPN) as an economical replacement for protein fed to ruminants (cattle that can wind up in pet food) or added directly to pet food to artificially raise crude protein values which are measured based on nitrogen content, as protein is about 16% nitrogen, but, for example, urea is 47% nitrogen. The reason your dog can leave brown spots where he/she urinates is because the urea found in urine has a very high nitrogen content that decomposes into ammonia and eventually into nitrates. Concentrated nitrates burn plants and dog urine can be similar to over-fertilizing your lawn in spots. To prevent brown spots, after your dog urinates, especially first thing in the morning when urine is most concentrated, try watering the spot to dilute the “fertilizer”. V W Wheat Flour - A refined grain fraction (part of a grain) that is high in starch and low in nutrition having been significantly modified from its natural composition. Usually involving the mechanical removal of bran and germ and further refining that may include mixing, bleaching, and brominating. Additionally, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, and iron are often added back in to nutritionally enrich the product. Because the added nutrients represent a fraction of the nutrients removed, refined grains are considered nutritionally inferior to whole grains. Can also contain "tail of the mill" which is the floor sweepings. Reducing whole grains to flour significantly increases the shelf life of the grain because the germ, rich in fatty acids that can go rancid quickly and, unfortunately, essential nutrients, has been removed. Investigation has recently shown that the melamine-contaminated cat and dog food ingredient imported from China was actually wheat flour disguised to make the flour appear more protein-rich and less starchy, thus mimicking a higher-protein product, such as wheat gluten. The question we feel people who are buying low-cost pet food from supermarkets and big box stores should be asking themselves is, “why am I purchasing pet food that uses cheap and potentially dangerous ingredients from China that can kill my beloved companion?”. 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