Natural Pet Health Education

Natural Flea Control Solutions

The Concept of putting systemic pesticides on our companion animals under the guise of maintaining good health seems to us a crazy idea. Often these dangerous chemicals can make our animals very sick, with the related health concerns easily outweighing the marketing promises in our opinion. When you further understand that 80% of a flea's lifespan is spent, and 95% of a flea population exists, in your animal's environment, poisoning your animal may seem even crazier to you! When manufacturing and marketing these topical flea and tick pesticides, it is evident to us that the overall health and wellness of your animals did not enter into the decision making process at all. The major concerns of the manufacturers appears to be that one, the poisons used did kill fleas and two, they needed to make sure that most animals did not keel over dead immediately after application. Both these concerns have been successful as most of the poisons, at this time, do kill fleas and most animals do not die instantly. A majority of animals, though, do exhibit a wide range of adverse events within hours of being treated with an application of a flea pesticide product. In our store we see unwanted symptoms in animals that can be traced back to the use of a spot on flea product on a weekly basis. In other words, an animal was perfectly fine and within minutes to a couple of weeks after the application of a chemical flea and tick product the animal begins to experience adverse symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, tremors or lethargy. Often, these symptoms take on the form of chronic illness, such as skin imbalances, and are not associated with the use of the flea pesticide products. Even when acute, sudden onset symptoms are seen, veterinarians often pontificate as to the inducement of the unwelcome symptoms being caused by something else and unrelated to the recent use of a topical flea pesticide. In our conversation with Merial (makers of Frontline), we asked what was the longest clinical trial on a single group of dogs. The answer is 90 DAYS! This is a usual time frame for a trial, some companies' trials may be a little longer and some may be a little less. The important thing to note is NOBODY KNOWS THE LONG TERM EFFECT OF USING THESE CHEMICALS, NOT EVEN THE MANUFACTURERS! Keep this information in mind the next time someone assures you that these products are safe. There is no way for anyone to know that. The fact is their has been, and continues to be acute illness, chronic illness and even death in animals that has been reported after the use of these systemic pesticides. What You May Not Know About Flea and Tick Pesticides Fleas are beginning to show resistance by developing immunity to these products Ingredients in topical flea and tick products have been shown to damage the thyroid, cause neurological and reproductive disorders and skin irritations, harm the liver and accumulate in body fat. Nothing is known about their long-term use. Supposedly the neurotoxins in these products effects only insects, but they are converted in the body of mammals into neurotoxins and endocrine disruptors. We will see more and more genetic damage in our animals down the line. This means weaker and sicklier animals as generations progress. Most of the flea poisons marketed to consumers target the flea. Yet, the majority of a flea's lifespan is not even spent on your animal! Bug-bombs are not effective against flea eggs and larvae. Flea collars are particularly ineffective. Fleas simply move away from the collar to other parts of your animal! Flea pesticide toxins pass through our animals 80% intact and into our drinking water - don't forget, they are neurotoxins and endocrine disruptors! Flea Life Cycle Flea Facts Fleas and mammals have been around for thousands of years, so there must be some relationship if they have existed together for so long. The misleading, fear driven marketing of flea pesticide products has created a billion dollar industry perpetuated by the pharmaceutical industry and some veterinarians. Fleas prefer weaker, less healthy hosts and puppies and kittens with less developed immune systems. Fleas are highly adaptable and evidence is coming to light that shows fleas are becoming resistant to commercial flea chemicals. Fleas have a difficult time surviving in a clean environment. The most prevalent species of flea is the Cat Flea, which also use dogs as a host. Under average household conditions, cat fleas will complete their life cycle within 3 to 4 weeks. Eggs typically make up 50% of an infestation in the home and the majority of these wind up in the environment off of your animal. Humidity below 50% and over 92% kills flea eggs. Larvae are free moving, and survive by feeding on organic debris found in their environment and on adult flea feces, which is essential for successful development. The larval stage usually lasts 5 to 11 days, depending upon the availability of food and the climatic conditions, and will account for about 35% of an infestation in a home. Upon completion of development, the mature larva produces a silk-like cocoon in which it pupates. Pupae are unaffected by household chemical sprays and commonly make up 10% of the infestation in a home. Once the flea emerges from the cocoon it can survive for 1 to 3 weeks before requiring a blood meal. Adult fleas make up only about 5% of a population and can live for as long as four months. If you have been using systemic pesticides on your pet we urge you to stop and take a more common sense approach. As you can see by the brief description of the life cycle of a flea above, if you are applying flea poisons to your animal you are only targeting 5% of the fleas! Since fleas are parasites the key is to strengthen the host and use effective natural ways to control flea populations in and around your home. Natural Flea Control Strengthen the host!Fleas are parasites and prey on weak animals. Poor commercial pet foods create a weak and out-of-balance animal; the perfect host for a flea. Purchase the best food you can afford for your animals. A whole food, natural diet minus any hormones, pesticides, chemicals, artificial additives and synthetic vitamins. Many of these toxins are secreted through hair follicles exacerbating skin problems, including flea bite dermatitis. Maintain healthy digestion and waste elimination by providing your animal with digestive enzymes, prebiotics and probiotics. Support a healthy immune system with a quality multi-vitamin and the periodic use of detoxifying and nutritive herbs. Add some essential fatty acids, such as a quality fish oil supplement, to your animals diet to ensure your animal has healthy skin and coat. Try a natural supplement such as brewers yeast and garlic or a yeast-free product to boost your animal's natural defenses and make them less tasty to fleas. Good housekeeping is a must. Vacuum regularly and thoroughly, including sofas and your animal's sleeping areas, and clean carpets. Don't forget to get rid of the vacuum bag or add diatomaceous earth or borate powder to the bag. Remember what was mentioned above? The majority of a flea's lifespan is spent off of your animal and fleas can not exist in a clean environment. Wash dog and cat beds as well as blankets and furniture that your pets sleep on. Inside you can use natural flea treatment powders that can be brushed into carpets, under furniture and pet beds or anywhere else you think fleas may be hiding and breeding. These powders work by either dehydrating flea larvae or by damaging a flea's exoskeleton and causing dessication. Because of fine particles that may irritate the lungs you should where a mask when applying diatomaceous earth or borate powder products. Treat your yard naturally by applying beneficial nematodes once or twice a year (depending on climate). These are beneficial insects that feed on insect larvae and will do a great job of keeping the outdoor flea population in check. Groom your companion By brushing your animal once or twice per week you will be removing dead hair, mats and tangles. All are prime hiding places for fleas. Purchase a flea comb. Pay close attention to places fleas typically congregate - belly area, under legs, and around the head and tail. When you find fleas, drown them in soapy water. Try natural, herbal shampoos and topical sprays. Bathe your pet with a nice healthy natural shampoo. Not too often as that may remove your animal's natural oils, drying out their skin. Avoid shampoos with chemical ingredients as these may also dry out and damage your animal's skin. You need to trust your retailer because manufacturers are not required to put all the ingredients that are in their shampoos on the label! At The Pet Health and Nutrition Center we check and have already caught one deceptive manufacturer! You don''t need to use toxic flea shampoos, just make sure you thoroughly wet and lather your pet. Leave the lather on for 10 to 15 minutes and then rinse really well making sure everything is washed down the drain. The shampoo breaks the surface tension so most if not all of the fleas will drown during bathing. We have some wonderful natural flea and tick sprays and powders that are effective. They can be applied directly onto your animal being careful of the eyes or placed on your hand or a towel or brush and then distributed through your animal's coat. Avoid the use of products containing essential oils on cats. Some, in small amounts may be okay, but unless you are sure which ones it is best to avoid them. Instead, use a hydrosol, sometimes called floral water, on your cat. That's it, no chemicals just a nice clean house and companion! Shop for Flea and Tick Control Products for Dogs and Cats  

  • Cats
  • Dogs
  • Health

High Pressure Processing (HPP): is it Safe for Pet Dog and Cat Food?

High Pressure Processing (HPP) is a process in which food is subjected to high pressure (up to 100,000psi). This pressure is applied uniformly around and throughout the food product so as to maintain the characteristics of the fresh food. HPP is used to destroy pathogenic organisms and it is believed that this process does not diminish product quality, such as flavor, texture and color, as does heat processing. HPP is used by industry to extend shelf life. Its use is being spurred on by an environment of fear that is pervasive within our society, but at what cost and with what risks? Many of us are aware of the harm that pasteurization does to raw milk. Yes, it kills potentially harmful bacteria, but safe handling, sanitary conditions and stringent safety measures would prevent the presence of this bacteria in the first place. However, the effects of pasteurization on milk are even more insidious. The heat used during this process does kill bacteria and extend shelf life, but it also destroys heat sensitive nutrients like vitamin C and beneficial microorganisms, changes the structural form of lactose, makes calcium less absorbable, destroys iodine content and destroys other vital, health giving qualities that are found in raw milk. And this next part gives a clue to where I am going with HPP. When the lactic acid bacilli, found in raw milk, are killed by pasteurization, the milk does not sour, which is very widely used for its health benefits, but instead quickly decays and undesirable microorganisms multiply very quickly. So the process of pasteurization not only destroys vital nutrients, but can make milk more dangerous if it is not stored properly or gets re-contaminated by pathogenic bacteria at some point during the manufacturing process. While I acknowledge that HPP destroys pathogenic bacteria, a concern is the fact that the beneficial bacteria, enzymes and other functional proteins are known to be destroyed during this process. But what effects don’t we know about at this time? Well, one thing we do know is that the beneficial bacteria found on raw food products, as well as those found in your gastrointestinal tract, are responsible for keeping colonies of pathogenic bacteria from multiplying quickly through competitive inhibition (competing for growth). This leads to my primary concern, which is, once these friendly bacteria are destroyed along with the unfriendly bacteria, there is nothing to keep the pathogenic bacteria from growing out-of-control if the food product is re-contaminated during manufacturing. This is exactly what has happened with several popular brands of kibble dog food recently, as well as over the last several decades, and this re-contamination with pathogenic bacteria, like Salmonella, after the cooking process, without the presence of friendly bacteria, can make people and animals sick. I fear raw pet food manufacturers, like Nature’s Variety and Stella and Chewy’s, are opening up a Pandora’s Box by using HPP, I hope others don’t follow suit. I believe that HPP appears to be safe, according to the information we have available today. Do I support its use on raw pet food? No, for the reasons listed above, and I will tell you a quick story that applies to the use of HPP and supports my position. We always give our cats a little treat before bed, which consists of an ounce or so of their favorite raw cat food. Sometimes they would not finish it all and I would find them munching on it the next morning after it had sat out at room temperature for eight or nine hours or so. I would always rush to try to get the left-over before they ate it because I was concerned with it having sat out unrefrigerated for so long, until I realized that they never got sick. My nineteen year-old cat Lacy would do this every morning as she did for years, and never got sick a day in her life! Why do I tell you this story? Because it was the presence of the beneficial bacteria that existed on this unprocessed raw food that kept any pathogenic bacteria at bay by preventing their population from multiplying. Would Lacy have become ill if I fed her a raw food treated with HPP? Yes, I believe she would have, because all the friendly bacteria would have been destroyed during processing and pathogenic bacteria, prevalent in our environment, could have multiplied unimpeded and contaminated her food. Whenever people come to me concerned with the use of raw food, I remind them that it is kibble and canned pet food that has sickened or killed our dogs and cats over the last few decades, not raw food. I whole heartedly support the use of unprocessed raw food for three reasons: raw food contains whole-food nutrition in a natural form that an animal’s body can easily digest, absorb, metabolize and eliminate what isn’t used and it contains beneficial bacteria, that are not only healthy, but control the growth of pathogenic bacteria that could make our animals sick. In addition, and this is very important, cats and dogs have a gastrointestinal tract that has evolved to deal with the presence of bacteria that can be found in raw food, much more so than the human GI tract. HPP in effect turns raw food into a processed food, and there is potentially trouble down the road for raw pet food manufacturers that choose to proudly market this process, like the two mentioned above, or those that succumb to fear and ignorance.   References 1). From Armchair Science, London (April 1938); Raw Milk Vs. Pasteurized Milk; http://www.realmilk.com/rawvpasteur.html; 11/06/2010 2). High Pressure Dynamics, Inc.; http://www.highpressuredynamics.com/; What is High Pressure Pasteurization?; 7/30/2010 3). Ohio State University Extension; http://ohioline.osu.edu/fse-fact/0001.html; High Pressure Processing; 7/30/2010  

  • Cats
  • Dogs
  • Nutrition

Heartworm Facts

This article on heartworm was reprinted with permission from Jan Rasmusen. Heartworms are Spread by Mosquitoes. Heartworm Meds are Spread by Fear. It’s getting warmer outside — time for sellers of heartworm medications to start scaring you to death. Television and print ads, which used to push meds only during warm summer months, now urge you to keep your dog on medication year round. The question is: why the change? Drs. David Knight and James Lok of the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, addressing recommendations for year round meds, warned: “The practice of some veterinarians to continuously prescribe monthly chemoprophylaxis exaggerates the actual risk of heartworm transmission in most parts of the country and unnecessarily increases the cost of protection to their clients.” So, is the change to year round meds all about money? Or is there more to this story? Heartworm “prevention” is a major health decision for pet parents and multi-billion dollar Big Business for drug companies, veterinarians, testing laboratories and on-line sellers of medication. When health intersects money, there’s a lot of room for conflict of interest. Only by understanding the business aspects and the truth about heartworm transmission can you make an informed decision about if, how and when to protect your dog with commercial products. While everyone agrees that heartworm infestations can be life-threatening, infestation is far from inevitable nor is it the immutable death sentence advertisers would have you believe. (Otherwise, all dogs and cats not on meds would die of infestation. But they don’t.) Every holistic vet I’ve consulted had concerns about the long-term safety of heartworm medications. Well-known vet, author and columnist Martin Goldstein wrote in his wonderful book The Nature of Animal Healing that he sees heartworms as less epidemic than the “disease-causing toxicity” of heartworm medicine. Dr. Jeff Levy, vet and homeopath, concluded “that it was not the heartworms that caused disease, but the other factors that damaged the dogs’ health to the point that they could no longer compensate for an otherwise tolerable parasite load.” Those factors include, “… being vaccinated yearly, eating commercial dog food, and getting suppressive drug treatment for other symptoms….” Heartworm meds do not, by the way, prevent heartworms. They are poisons that kill heartworm larvae (called microfilariae) contracted during the previous 30-45 days (and maybe longer due to what is call the Reach Back Effect). The heartworm industry authority, The American Heartworm Society (and their cat heartworm site), offers a wealth of information. Their website is a public service but also a marketing tool aimed at buyers and resellers of heartworm meds. Sponsors of this website are a Who’s Who of drug companies. Fort Dodge Animal Health (Wyeth), Merial and Pfizer are “Platinum Sponsors.” Bayer merits Silver. Novartis, Schering-Plough, Virbac and Eli Lilly get Bronze. Most of these companies have sales reps that regularly call on vets and show them how to sell you heartworm meds. With any purchase of any drug, we recommend you ask for information regarding possible adverse effects, the necessity for taking this drug and available alternatives. How Heartworms Infect Dogs: It’s Not Easy! Well, now that we’ve looked behind the scenes of the heartworm industry, let’s take a look at how the heartworms themselves (called Dirofilaria immitis) do business. Seven steps must be completed to give your dog a dangerous heartworm infestation: Step 1: To infect your dog, you need mosquitoes (so you need warm temperatures and standing water). More specifically, you need a hungry female mosquito of an appropriate species. Female mosquitoes act as airborne incubators for premature baby heartworms (called microfilariae). Without the proper mosquito, dogs can’t get heartworms. Period. That means dogs can’t “catch” heartworms from other dogs or mammals or from dog park lawns. Puppies can’t “catch” heartworms from their mothers and moms can’t pass heartworm immunity to pups. Step 2: Our hungry mosquito needs access to a dog already infected with sexually mature male and female heartworms that have produced babies. Step 3: The heartworm babies must be at the L1 stage of development (first stage larvae) when the mosquito bites the dog and withdraws blood. If they have matured into L2 or L3 then transmission won’t occur. Step 4: Ten to fourteen days later — if the temperature is right –the microfilariae mature inside the mosquito to the infective L3 stage then migrate to the mosquito’s mouth. (Yum!) Step 5: Madame mosquito transmits the L3’s to your dog’s skin with a bite. Then, if all conditions are right, the L3’s develop in the skin for three to four months (to the L5 stage) before making their way into your dog’s blood. But your dog still isn’t doomed. Step 6: Only if the dog’s immune system doesn’t rid the dog of these worms do the heartworms develop to adulthood. Step 7: It takes approximately six months for the surviving larvae to achieve maturity. At this point, the adult heartworms may produce babies if there are both males and females, but the kiddies will die unless a mosquito carrying L3’s intervenes. Otherwise, the adults will live several years then die. In summation, a particular species of mosquito must bite a dog infected with circulating L1 heartworm babies, must carry the babies to stage L3 and then must bite your dog . The adult worms and babies will eventually die off in the dog unless your dog is bitten again! Oh, and one more thing. Heartworms Development Requires Sustained Day & Night Weather Above 57˚F In Step 4 above I wrote that heartworm larvae develop “if the temperature is right.” The University of Pennsylvania Vet School (in a study funded by Merial) found: “Development in the mosquito is temperature dependent, requiring approximately two weeks of temperature at or above 27C (80F). Below a threshold temperature of 14C (57F), development cannot occur, and the cycle will be halted. As a result, transmission is limited to warm months, and duration of the transmission season varies geographically.” Knight and Lok agree: “In regions where average daily temperatures remain at or below about 62˚F (17˚ C) from late fall to early spring, insufficient heat accumulates to allow maturation of infective larvae in the intermediate host [the mosquito], precluding transmission of the parasite.” The Washington State University vet school reports that laboratory studies show that maturation of the worms requires “the equivalent of a steady 24-hour daily temperature in excess of 64°F (18°C) for approximately one month.” In other words, it has to be warm day AND night or development is retarded even if the average temperature is sufficiently warm. They add, that at 80° F, “10 to 14 days are required for development of microfilariae to the infective stage.” Jerold Theis, DVM, PhD, says, “If the mean monthly temperature is only a few degrees above 14 degrees centigrade [57 degrees F] it can take so many days for infective larvae to develop that the likelihood of the female mosquito living that long is remote.” I have never found this temperature-dependent information on a website promoting “preventatives,” but only in more scholarly works not easily accessed by the public. There is, as far as I can find, only one mention of temperature on the Heartworm Society canine heartworm page and none in the Merck/Merial Veterinary Manual site or Merial’s heartworm video — even though Merial funded the UPenn study. The Society also reports, “Factors affecting the level of risk of heartworm infection include the climate (temperature, humidity), the species of mosquitoes in the area, presence of mosquito breeding areas and presence of animal reservoirs (such as infected dogs or coyotes).” A Heartworm Society news release states: “By giving heartworm prevention every month, forgetful pet owners will have their pets protected when they need it most.” But doesn’t that also mean they get it when they need it least? Or need it not at all? Are you a “forgetful” owner? In this part of my heartworm series, we’ll discusses informed decision-making, and suggests ways, if you want them, to limit or eliminate heartworm drugs. I am a researcher and holistic health advocate, not a vet. Please learn the facts then discuss with your vet the appropriate course given your dog’s location, lifestyle, travel schedule, health, climate and the time of year. Expect an open-mind and respect from your vet, or find another vet. Just as with vaccination, “one size fits all” is outdated, profit-driven, lazy medicine. Take a look at the map above, courtesy of the Heartworm Society. Part 1 of this article demonstrated that transmission is heat and mosquito dependent. As expected, dark areas of the map, which show the most heartworm cases per clinic, are found in the hot, humid Southeastern US, especially the Atlantic and Gulf coasts and Mississippi Delta. Don’t let the map scare you. If published seasonally, map colors would pale significantly during cool months. Also remember that you’re seeing generalities, not specifics. A clinic near a rural pond will likely have many cases while an urban clinic 15 miles away may have a much lower incidence. Maps are general. Determine your own microclimate. Ask your vet how many cases of heartworm infection he/she treated in the past year. Also ask if he/she treats all positive cases, or just those with advanced infestation. If the vet doesn’t keep detailed records, that should tell you something. Conservative start/stop maps from heartworm researchers Drs. David Knight and James Lok (in “Seasonality of Heartworm Infections and Implications for Chemoprophylaxis”) show only two areas requiring year round heartworm meds: the southernmost areas of Florida and Texas. Houston, New Orleans and similar areas are shown requiring meds for 9 months. Other states range from 3-7 months. The Drs. wrote: “For nearly 80% of the states, the potential for heartworm transmission is limited to 6 months or less.” Does Year Round Medicating Bring Extra Protection? Applying suncreen at night is useless. So is taking heartworm medication when climate conditions prevent transmission. Only a small percentage of climes permit year-round transmission. Everyone else is unnecessarily subsidizing drug companies and “preventatives” sellers and, more importantly, exposing their dog to unnecessary risks. Two exceptions: 1) “Forgetful” and irresponsible pet parents who won’t begin the medication on time or build their dog’s natural immunity might want to medicate year round, although that means they have to remember to give meds every month. 2) If your dog contracts heartworms within a few years of beginning medication … and you can show you gave meds year round … and your dog had the required blood tests (2 or 3), you may benefit a little financially because drug companies will pay for dog’s treatment. Are Heartworm Preventatives Safe? You’ve seen those scary photos of worm-strangled hearts, right? Shouldn’t you give meds year round just in case? Isn’t safe better than sorry? But is that harmless little pill or yummie medical “brownie” really safe? No drug is completely free of risk and adverse reactions. I can find no long-term studies regarding cancer risks and organ damage for dogs receiving heartworm insecticides year round (or even for a few months). Such a study would be difficult to conduct and very expensive. Who would fund such a study — or publish any negative findings? One clue to the possibility of adverse reactions should be label warnings: call your doctor immediately if ingested; keep away from children; wash your hands immediately after use…. How can medication be good for dogs but so dangerous for you? Another question: is your dog healthy enough for these medications? The “Heartworm Prevention” page of the American Animal Hospital Association states: “Healthy kidneys and normal liver functions are essential in metabolizing most medications.” Many dogs, including my Jiggy, do not have healthy organ function. I wonder how many unhealthy animals are nevertheless on meds? Adverse Reactions to Heartworm Medications With any drug, study FDA and manufacturer information before medicating. These adverse reactions have been reported to the FDA by manufacturers. Terms you might not understand include ataxia (gross lack of coordination of muscle movements), pruritus (itchy dermatologic condition), urticaria (hives), mydriasis (excessive pupil dilation), and erythema (skin redness). Other terms should be self-explanatory. HEARTGARD® and TriHeartPlus® (ivermectin): Depression/lethargy, vomiting, anorexia, diarrhea, mydriasis, ataxia staggering, convulsions and hypersalivation. INTERCEPTOR® (milbemycin oxime) reports the above reactions plus weakness. Sentinel (milbemycin oxime) reports vomiting, depression/lethargy, pruritus, urticaria, diarrhea, anorexia, skin congestion, ataxia, convulsions, hypersalivation and weakness. REVOLUTION® (selamectin), Topical Parasiticide For Dogs and Cats: pre-approval reactions of vomiting, loose stool or diarrhea with or without blood, anorexia, lethargy, salivation, tachypnea, and muscle tremors. Post-approval experience included the above plus pruritis, urticaria, erythema, ataxia, fever, and rare reports of death and seizures in dogs. Proheart 6® : severe allergic reactions (anaphylaxis): facial swelling, itching, difficulty breathing, collapse; lethargy (sluggishness); not eating or losing interest in food; any change in activity level; seizures; vomiting and/or diarrhea (with and without blood); weight loss; pale gums, increased thirst or urination, weakness, bleeding, bruising; rare instances of death. This product was voluntarily withdrawn from the market in 2004 because of deaths but has been reintroduced. For any other brand, research the product or its active ingredient before even thinking of administering it. Also, never give any meds without first learning if any vitamins, minerals, herbal products or drugs interact negatively with the medication. Note age restrictions. Most importantly, learn what symptoms alert you to a reaction. Important note: Studies have indicated that certain dogs of the herding breeds are more sensitive to the effects of ivermectin (Heartgard and others) administered at elevated dose levels due to the MDR1 gene. Dog breeds that may be affected include Australian Shepherd, Australian Shepherd Mini, Border Collie, Collie and English Shepherd. Beware any website or person professing the absolute safety of any medication. I’d like adverse reactions for pet medications to be included in all TV ads, as they are for meds for humans — but I don’t expect it. Reporting Adverse Events: Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect a reaction to this or any other drug. Discuss alternatives and treatment and make sure the reaction is recorded in your dog’s file. The AVMA says : “… notify the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) by contacting the manufacturer. The FDA requires that manufacturers of FDA-approved drugs forward adverse event reports to the agency.” Is the fox is guarding the hen house? Ask your vet to report the reaction, then follow up and make sure your vet did it. Under-reporting is common. (An estimated 99% of adverse reactions go unreported according to the FDA.) Click here for FDA reporting instructions. Tests for Heartworm Infection Heartworms can, and should, be detected by a simple blood test before administering medication. The antigen test detects an adult female worms at least 5-8 months old. The Merck Veterinary Manual says: “The antigen detection test is the preferred diagnostic method for asymptomatic dogs or when seeking verification of a suspected HW infection.” Microfilariae (babies) in the blood are detected by a different blood test. These show exposure, but do not detect female adults (potential breeders). Antibody tests (as opposed to antigen tests) are not preferred because they indicate only that the dog has been exposed to heartworms at some time in his or her life, even if the worms subsequently died. If you plan to give “preventatives,” test before beginning medication, preferably within a month of when daily temperatures consistently climb above 57˚ F. Read more at the Heartworm Society Serology section. If you’re not going to use meds, homeopathic veterinarian Jeff Feinman wrote me that he advises semi-annual testing when not using preventatives. My own vet, Tamara Hebbler, agrees. Testing twice yearly helps you catch disease early when it’s easier to treat. Dr. Martin Goldstein in The Nature Of Animal Healing says: “Only a small percentage of dogs who get heartworm die of it, especially if they’re routinely tested twice yearly for early detection. Even in untreated dogs, after a period of uncomfortable symptoms, the adult worms die….” Did you know that the latest canine movie star “Benji” was found in a shelter, infected with heartworms? Benji was treated successfully and went onto canine fame and a healthy life. Heartworms, like other parasites, don’t become life threatening quickly or inevitably. It takes at least 5 months, and more often 7-8 months, for a baby to grow to a reproducing adult — presuming the dog’s immune system doesn’t intervene. Also, adult males and females must both survive to breed. Important Note If your dog’s antigen test comes back positive, do a second test to verify results. Holistic vet Tamara Hebbler suggests that before you rush into treatment with harsh, poisonous drugs, you should get a cardiac ultrasound to determine the extent of the infestation. Heartworms, like other parasites, often live with their hosts without ever causing a dangerous problem. It’s quite common for animals in the wild to live entire lives with heartworms. (If worms always killed dogs, they’d soon run out of hosts.) Unless heartworms are re-introduced by another infected mosquito, the adults and their babies will eventually die off. When Should You Start Administering Meds — If You’re Going To? Remember, you kill heartworm babies after the fact. You can only “prevent” them by avoiding mosquitoes. (You can also kill them with a healthy immune system.) This means starting meds 30-45 days after the weather warms and mosquitoes appear. Also, Washington State University warns, “If your pet travels to heartworm areas, prevention needs to be administered within 30 days of exposure to infected mosquitoes. Adult dogs (older than 6 mos.) need to be tested before starting preventative.” Dr. Margo Roman, an integrative vet from in Massachusetts, documentary film maker and Founder of the first-ever Integrative Health Pet Expo in Massachusetts this fall, tells me she begins medication six weeks after sees mosquitoes. This allows 2 weeks for the microfilariae (baby heartworms) to mature inside a mosquito to the infective stage and be transferred to a dog, plus 30 days additional days covered by the medication working backwards to kill those babies. When Should You Stop Heartworm “Preventatives”? Dr. Roman recommends stopping meds after the first frost for people living in an area with cold winters. In other areas, vets recommend stopping 30-45 days after weather is consistently below 57 F degrees and you see no mosquitoes. What Brand Should You Use? Consumers often think that “preventing” as many parasites as possible with one product is a bargain — and ultimately safer for the dog. But why expose your dog to additional, unnecessary toxins? Most holistic vets will tell you to protect against only those pests (and diseases) your dog is likely to encounter. To see which products do what, see the “preventatives” comparison chart at Veterinary Partner. ***Low Dose “Safeheart” Medication Approved by the FDA More than a decade ago — on June 4, 1998 — the FDA approved a 1/5 dose version of Interceptor heartworm medication, a product called Safeheart. This expensive field trial was conducted and the dosage approved — but inexplicably the product was never marketed in the U.S. To duplicate the Safeheart heartworm “prevention” method — which you can’t buy — you have to split the Interceptor dose into quarters. Check with Interceptor first, and ask your pharmacist or vet how to do this accurately. The recommended once-a-month dosage is 0.1 mg of milbemycin oxime per kg of body weight (0.05 mg/lb). (Interceptor’s regular dose of dosage is 0.5 mg milbemycin oxime per kg of body weight.) Note: At this dose, only heartworms will be treated with the Safeheart method, not other worms or fleas. How Often Should You Give Meds? In his important book Homeopathic Care For Cats and Dogs, veterinarian Don Hamilton says of heartworm: “In dogs the “monthly” preventives are effective if given at six week intervals, and possibly even at seven- or eight week intervals….” Author/veterinarians Richard Pitcairn and Allen Schoen told us essentially the same thing when we were researching our book Scared Poopless. If you opt for this “less is more” treatment with “preventatives,” mark dosing dates on your calendar and don’t miss them. The vets at Holistic Vet Center say: “… monthly heartworm preventatives are actually 100% effective if given every 45 days and 99% effective if given every 60 days.” I presume that the monthly schedule was designed for the ease of remembering when to give meds. However … giving meds monthly rather than every 45 days requires more doses — and offers more opportunities for adverse reactions. For someone medicating year-round, that’s 4 fewer doses per year. Are There Natural Heartworm Preventatives? Mosquito control is the ultimate natural preventative. No mosquitoes, no heartworms. Control mosquitoes by eliminating standing water and staying indoors at dusk and dawn. Use bug spray (marked safe and non-toxic for animals and children). Buy bug zappers. (All these are good ideas for human protection from mosquito-borne diseases as well.) What do I do? Well, for me, the choice was easy. I live in So. California. I rarely see mosquitoes. My dogs spend most of their time indoors. Nights are invariably cool. With the advice of two local vets, I decided to protect my own dogs (both of whom have health challenges) against the toxicity of heartworm “preventatives” rather than protect against an unlikely infection. I use non-toxic alternatives like mosquito control, an excellent diet and no drugs unless they’re absolutely unavoidable. I increase safety by testing blood twice yearly. I haven’t used “preventatives” for five or six years and my dogs remain heartworm free. This is my personal decision. I am not a vet. If I lived in a mosquito-heavy area, however, I might do much the same. I would determine local risks and would consult a local holistic vet to get help preventing heartworms naturally. I would control mosquitoes and test blood twice or more yearly. Someone who had “outside dogs,” and who was the nervous about heartworms, might also use heartworm meds or the Safeheart method during the peak heartworm months of July and August, but only if their dogs had healthy kidneys and livers. They should make any decision with a knowledgeable vet. Dr. Will Falconer, a holistic vet certified in acupuncture and homeopathy, has written an e-book called “Drug-Free Heartworm Prevention.” This 50+ page, well-written e-book is delivered electronically. I do not profit from sales of this book although I was given a complementary review copy. Drs. Richard Pitcairn and Martin Goldstein have also written about heartworms in their books. Most importantly, do not make decisions out of fear. Don’t let anyone, even your vet, intimidate or ridicule you. Be an educated consumer and a rabid advocate for your dog’s health.

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Foundations of Healthy Pet Nutrition

The foundation for any healthy food plan for your animal companion includes: A nutritious Whole Food Diet A quality Vitamin/Mineral Supplement Digestive Enzymes Probiotics Healthy Fatty Acids Whole Food Diet In our opinion, a whole food diet is the most important part of the foundation for health and longevity. A diet consisting of unprocessed whole foods is rich in vitamins and minerals and associated nutrients, many of which science hasn’t even identified yet, that work synergistically in the manner nature intended and the body is designed to use. How can corporations and food scientists duplicate what nature originally created? The answer is they can’t! The nutrients in commercial diets are often degraded, molecularly changed or completely lost as a result of processing, which usually involves high heat and pressure. "Ninety per cent of the diseases known to man are caused by cheap foodstuffs. You are what you eat." -nutritionist Victor Lindlahr We focus on “species appropriate” diets. For carnivores that includes a raw diet consisting of muscle meat, organs and bones, preferably from human-grade, antibiotic and hormone-free, humanely-raised sources that have access to the outdoors, along with nutritious vegetables and fruits and minimal, if any, whole grains and deriving all, or the majority of their nutrition, from whole food sources. If you can’t, or do not wish to, feed a raw food diet you should focus on the highest-quality processed food diet you can afford that derives the majority of its nutrition from whole-food sources. For most birds a species appropriate diet would consist of sprouted seeds and grains, a premium seed mix with human-grade ingredients, a minimally processed, all-natural pellet diet, and a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. For rabbits and other small pets the diet should consist primarily of a high-fiber hay (such as timothy), fresh vegetables, minimal fruits, and supplemented with the highest quality, all-natural pellet or seed diet (depending on the species) that you can find. Vitamin/Mineral Supplement Even the best quality diet benefits from the addition of a high-quality vitamin and mineral supplement. Because of agricultural practices, soil has become depleted of important minerals and shipping and storage often leave our fruits and vegetables depleted of nutritious vitamins. Research shows that the fruits and vegetables we enjoy today contain a fraction of the nutrition they did only several decades ago! In addition, contaminates and pollutants found everywhere today place an additional heavy burden on the body. In an attempt to make their foods nutritionally viable and make up for the destruction of nutrients during processing, many commercially prepared diets add synthetic vitamins –often incorporating a third of the ingredient panel or more! Synthetic vitamins do not provide the same benefits as nutrients found in their natural form because they differ molecularly so the body does not recognize them and they are not easily utilized. You may also find these synthetic products in powder, tablet or capsule form to be added to your animal’s diet. They are usually inexpensive, with good reason, and testing has often shown them to be contaminated and/or deficient in what is advertised on the label. Research is beginning to show the negative health consequences of consuming isolated synthetic vitamins and minerals and we are sure you will be hearing more about this in the future. We focus on whole food vitamin and mineral supplements, which consist primarily of nutritious foods in a natural form that your animal’s body can easily utilize. These supplements are rich in natural forms of vitamins and minerals, enzymes, coenzymes, phytochemicals and other substances, many of which science has yet to discover, that work together synergistically to provide your animal with balanced, easily assimilated nutrition. We recommend you use a variety of products and rotate so your animal companion receives a full range of balanced nutrition over time. Digestive Enzymes Digestive enzymes are the functional proteins that assist with the digestion of foods and the assimilation of nutrients. Without them the body, particularly the pancreas, must work harder to secrete its own enzymes and often malabsorption issues result. Raw and fermented foods contain the live enzymes needed for digestion so your animal receives the benefit of all available nutrients. However, once a food is processed at a temperature above 115 degrees, all enzymes are destroyed. This pertains to all kibble and canned dog and cat foods and pellet diets for birds and small pets (except cold-processed pellets). In nature, an animal’s diet is designed to provide a large majority of the enzymes from raw plant matter, sprouted seeds or the contents of an animal’s stomach (raw green tripe) in the case of carnivores. This is very important for the health of an animal, especially as an animal ages and the body produces less enzymes. We recommend the addition of enzymes with every meal. Doses can be reduced by half when feeding a primarily raw food diet. Fresh sprouted seeds and grains and raw fruits and vegetables can be used to supply birds and small pets with a rich supply of living enzymes. The more common digestive enzymes include: Proteases - aid in digestion and utilization of protein & other nutrients Amylase - digests carbohydrates and starch Lipase - digests fats Bromelain - a protease derived from pineapple Papain - a protease derived from papaya Cellulase & Hemicellulase - help the body break down and derive nutrients from plant cellulose Probiotics Probiotics are beneficial bacteria, the “good” or “friendly” bacteria that populate the entire digestive tract, and play an important role in digestion, nutrient assimilation, the production of certain vitamins and immune system function. These good bacteria can be depleted for a variety of reasons including poor diet, antibiotic and steroid use, NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), surgery, medications, acute and chronic diarrhea, chlorinated water, artificial ingredients and preservatives found in poor quality foods, toxins found in food and the environment, and stress. Examples of beneficial bacteria include various species of Lactobacillus, Acidophilus, Bacillus, Streptococcus, Enterococcus, Bifidobacterium, and beneficial yeast such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae. We recommend providing your animal companion with a probiotic supplement everyday, and doubling the dosage for two weeks following any antibiotic use. This will insure that a steady supply of beneficial bacteria is provided to replace those lost and ensure the colonies of “good” bacteria out-compete any “bad” or pathogenic bacteria. Make sure a supplement containing a variety of beneficial organisms is used, not just acidophilus for instance, or an imbalance will result. Essential Fatty Acids Essential Fatty Acids (commonly called EFAs) are fat based nutrients that every mammal needs to maintain healthy function and structure of smooth muscle organs and systems (heart/reproductive/digestive), to protect and build liver cells and to maintain healthy skin, coat and joint tissue. Scientifically speaking, when the term “essential fatty acid” is used it is referring to fatty acids that cannot be created by the body and must be obtained through the diet. The only two true essential fatty acids are an omega 3 polyunsaturated fatty acid called Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA) and an omega 6 polyunsaturated fatty acid called Linoleic Acid (LA) from which all other fatty acids can be created within the body. Many of us focus on two omega 3 fatty acids called eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) because of their anti-inflammatory health benefits. You may be wondering why we recommend EPA and DHA instead of the essential fatty acids ALA and LA since the body should just synthesize them anyway. Well, in a perfect world that would be true and you could just take the essential fatty acids and the body would produce all the rest. However, everything does not always work perfectly and often an animal’s body does not produce enough enzymes for the efficient conversion of all the other fatty acids. This deficiency can be caused by genetics, age or a liver problem. EPA, DHA and other anti-inflammatory omega 3 fatty acids take on more importance when taking into account the large amount of pro-inflammatory omega 6 fatty acids obtained through diets rich in grains or from meat sources fed a primarily grain-based diet (as is most of our meat in this country) or free-range meat sources finished on feed lots. You can reduce the need for supplementation by providing your dog or cat with true free-range meat from New Zealand as is found in K-9 Natural and Feline Natural raw pet foods. The ratio of omega 6’s to omega 3’s in a typical processed diet far exceeds the proper ratio range of 1:1 to 4:1 and requires the supplementing of omega 3 fatty acids. For most mammals we recommend supplementing with fish oil, rich in EPA and DHA, for healthy anti-inflammatory benefits for the skin, lungs, heart and joints. The majority of our products feature non-predatory fish species that contain less dioxin than salmon oils and are sustainably harvested and certified free of heavy metals and other toxins. It is also important that the fish oil contains natural vitamin E as an antioxidant because polyunsaturated oils oxidize quickly and can deplete the body of this important vitamin. Since fish oils can thin blood and reduce blood clot formation, speak with your veterinarian about reducing or eliminating these from the diet prior to any surgery. It appears that linoleic acid (omega 6) is the primary essential fatty acid for birds. They can receive plenty of this fatty acid from a diet that contains some seeds and grains (approximately 10% of the diet), preferably soaked or sprouted. In addition, your birds should receive some alpha linolenic acid (omega 3) from flax seeds and nuts, such as walnuts. A lot to know, but you have us! Please feel free to ask for assistance from The Pet Health and Nutrition Center Staff. We are happy to help you achieve the highest possible level of health and happiness for your animals using a holistic approach to wellness.

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Dangers of Clumping Litter

Cats spend a decent amount of time in their litter boxes scraping around to make sure that the offending excrement has been sufficiently covered. Upon leaving the box most cats will give themselves a good wash removing litter box dust and grit from their fur and feet. Because of these behaviors it is important to choose a littler that is as safe as possible. The dangers of breathing silica dust, the main component of clay based litter, is well documented in humans. Silica dust is quite abrasive and when breathed in causes irritation of the nose throat and lung tissue. Chronic exposure does lead to lung disease in humans and is a suspected carcinogen. Since the tissue that makes up the nasal and throat passages and lungs are made up of the same type of cells as the corresponding human tissue it stand to reason that cats could suffer the same health effects with long term exposure. There are additional dangers to using clay based litters. The reason this type of litter gained popularity is because of it’s amazing ability to adsorb liquid. Silica has amazing water absorbing qualities which make it very effective in the litter box but very dangerous to ingest. Since we know that cats consume litter off their paws and fur it is fairly safe to assume that the daily consumption of even small quantities of clay based litter could cause a state of chronic mild dehydration, which can lead to renal failure over time. Blockages of the intestines and prevention of nutrient absorption are still more reasons to avoid this type of litter.

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Animal Communication

Animal Communication

The Pet Health and Nutrition Center Family has for years incorporated animal communication into our holistic lifestyle as one of the useful tools that joins others such as a species appropriate diet and organic, whole food supplementation in caring for our own companion animals. We thought it was time to bring you more detailed information on how Animal Communication can help you and your companion animals and guide you towards a gifted Animal Communicator in Carol Harrison. The information below has been provided by Carol. What is Telepathic Communication? It is a heart-to-heart exchange of energy. It is sending and receiving thoughts and information through words, feelings, emotions, images, and sometimes simply a knowing. Telepathic Communication has no geographical boundaries, and is not limited to any one species. It is an opening of the heart and a knowing that we are all Divine creatures. Successful communication is a willingness to view another species from their point-of-view. How Can Animal Communication Help Me With My Animal? Telepathic Communication gives the animal a voice and opens up a clear channel for people to understand life from the animal’s point-of view. Most behavior issues are a cry for help, a reaction to a past experience, a possible health issue, or a lack of a mutual understanding of what is and is not acceptable behavior as you share your life together. Most animals also have very strong opinions about how their basic needs are met, for example: are they on the right diet, is their living environment set up to help them thrive, feel safe, provide proper exercise, etc. When poor health is a factor, animal communication can help you understand what is happening inside their body from their experience of it. How many times has someone said “ if only my dog, cat, horse, bird, fish, etc. could tell me what’s wrong.” Animal Communication can be that voice. Unless an animal communicator is also a vet they DO NOT DIAGNOSE, or take the place of a vet when required. However, giving your animal a voice can assist in getting directly to the core issue, providing the least invasive, most beneficial care for your beloved companion. Animal Communication helps the caregiver to better understand the personality, humor, and wisdom of their companions in order to provide the best care and, to enjoy and enhance the bond between them. Animals are wise and prophetic friends who have much to teach us. A Case Story of Animal Communication One example of how telepathic communication and energy healing can bring about positive results is the following story about Betsy: Betsy is a beautiful medium sized golden retriever who was adopted through a rescue organization to a single woman living alone in a mountain cabin. For two years Betsy was the perfect companion, but could be very protective of her human. She always got to the door first when someone was arriving to visit, often times doing a low growl to let everyone know she was “on the job”. However, once through the door she was an absolute love, well-behaved in every way. For no obvious reason Betsy became very aggressive, She began chasing people as they strolled by, barking, jumping up, even biting at their ankles. She went so far as to bite a neighbor and began attacking other animals if they came too close to the cabin. People started complaining about Betsy, neighbors became fearful of what she would do next. Her human mom became concerned that she would have to give Betsy up, or worse. Her mom called Carol to see what could be done. Betsy revealed that she was not feeling well herself, and that she was very worried about her human and believed that a heightened level of protection was the answer. The body scan revealed an imbalance in Betsy’s system that caused her to feel very nervous and out of sorts, much like a human in sugar-shock. Carol suggested dietary changes and supplementation to address the physical. Carol then offered a Reiki healing session to relieve the stress and tension Betsy was feeling. It was then revealed that Betsy’s human was experiencing a serious health issue of her own. Betsy had picked up on the changes she was seeing, feeling, and smelling regarding her mom. Carol explained to Betsy that the aggression she was displaying to others was beyond what was needed, caused undo harm to people and animals, and was causing problems for her mom in the neighborhood. Betsy’s mom, Carol, and Betsy discussed the situation and explained to Betsy what her job in the household was, and how it might be carried out in a more appropriate way...alerting mom that someone was out there, or at the door, but waiting for mom’s signal that it was friend, not foe, and all was well. Since that day Betsy’s mom made the suggested changes in diet and there have been no episodes of aggression toward anyone. Betsy now greets you at the door, tail wagging, glancing at mom for reassurance that she is doing her job appropriately, and there have been no issues outside. About Carol Harrison - Animal Communication, Body Scans and Energy Healing Carol Harrison is the Professional Animal Communicator we have been working with for over ten years. In addition to receiving information through telepathic communication, Carol is also extremely skilled at scanning the body of your animal - feeling what they feel and receiving intuitive information on the physical experiences your animal is having. This gift can be very useful when trying to develop nutritional and supplement recommendations for a particular animal and is often made use of by clients of The Pet Health and Nutrition Center. Carol is also a Reiki Master and Shamanic Practitioner. Following the body scan she will immerse your companion in healing energy to bring about whatever is in the highest good of all. We invite to experience for yourself the many benefits of Telepathic Communication and Energy Healing. The following is Carol’s contact information : Carol Harrison lives in Harwinton, CT with her parrot, cat, and standard and miniature poodles. Carol can be reached at 860-605-9044. www.carolharrisonstarspirit.com

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Autoimmune Disease Causes in Dogs and Cats

Autoimmune Disease Causes in Dogs and Cats

Autoimmune conditions in animals occur when a dog or cat’s immune system produce antibodies (called autoantibodies when they cause autoimmune disease) that attack the body’s own tissue. Autoreactive (act against their own tissue) white blood cells can cause chronic conditions like rheumatoid arthritis and in other cases severe tissue damage that can result in a life-threatening condition as occurs when the body attacks its own red blood cells in immune mediated hemolytic anemia. Common Causes Chemicals, toxins and less commonly bacterial or viral infection are the primary causes of autoimmune conditions. This makes sense when you understand that these intrusions in the body cause an immune response to protect the body from these invaders. In most cases the immune system responds in a controlled manner and then returns to normal as the chemicals or toxins are eliminated with the additional help of the liver, kidneys and entire lymphatic system. Vaccinations An animal acquiring an autoimmune condition after a vaccination is very common. This occurs due to the immune stimulating (proteins/antigens) and other chemical components (preservatives etc) that are contained in vaccines that cause a response by immune system cells. Just because your pet has not had an obvious reaction to a vaccine in the past doesn’t mean they will not have one in the future. Also keep in mind that side effects that can be associated with a vaccination may not become obvious for day or weeks afterwards. For more information on vaccinations view our article Vaccinating Your Dog or Cat. Topical Flea and Tick Products We believe this may top vaccinations as a reason a dog or cat acquires an autoimmune condition. Flea and tick chemicals are poisons, pure and simple. At least 1,600 pet deaths related to spot on treatments were reported to the EPA over a five year period (2008 - 2013). In 2000, the Natural Resources Defense Council released a report called Poisons on Pets: Health Hazards from Flea and Tick Products. The report demonstrated a link between chemicals commonly used in flea and tick products and serious health problems in both people and pets. We never recommend their use under any circumstances. Other Toxins A client that found us too late had a very sick dog that was sprayed in the face by a skunk. That dog over the course of her life was very sensitive to chemicals. She went into autoimmune hemolytic anemia and passed away after extensive treatment. This case was largely unavoidable, it was an accident, but we share this story to show that any and all toxins can be dangerous to your dog or cat and should be avoided as much as possible. This includes household and lawn chemicals, vaccinations, flea and tick products, grooming products and additives in food and water. By keeping chemicals away from your dog or cat as much as possible you may be able to avoid a preventable traumatic loss of your animal. Genetics You may ask: Don’t genetics play a role? Of course they do, but they are not the catalyst for an autoimmune condition in your dog or cat. If your animal has a genetic disposition towards getting an autoimmune condition it doesn’t mean they have to. The catalyst is generally going to be exposure to a chemical or toxin or repeated exposure that makes your dog or cat more susceptible to future reactions. Infections Research has not indicated for certain that infections can lead to autoimmune conditions. However, since bacteria and viruses trigger an immune response, some researchers have suggested that antibodies produced in response to certain infections may also attack normal cells. When making choices that involve the health of your dog or cat keep in mind the adage “the straw that broke the camels back”. In autoimmune conditions there is always a catalyst. We have some great products that can help your dog or cat that can be found by shopping under Autoimmune Condition. References Immune response to vaccine antigens. Retrieved from https://www.nap.edu/read/5881/chapter/12 Flea and tick product ingredients: what you should know. Retrieved from http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/resources/tips/flea_tick_OTC_pet_products.html <mccoy, k.="" (december="" 2,="" 2009).="" <em="">Can infections lead to autoimmune disorders? Retrieved from http://www.everydayhealth.com/autoimmune-disorders/understanding/are-autoimmune-diseases-caused-by-infections.aspx

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Is Fish Oil Healthy for My Dog or Cat?

Is Fish Oil Healthy for My Dog or Cat?

Fish oil is often recommended for dogs and cats for the omega 3 fatty acids it contains. Omega 3 fatty acids possess anti-inflammatory properties that can be useful for inflammatory conditions like allergies, arthritis and heart disease. However, there is more to this story than just ‘fish oil = healthy, anti-inflammatory qualities’, and our discussion on this topic will help to educate you and support our evolving, less than enthusiastic position on fish oil for general use as a supplement. The Health Benefits of Fish Oil The health benefits of fish oil that receive the most attention include its ability to aid in the treatment of various heart diseases, lower high cholesterol, reduce inflammation associated with arthritis, allergies, skin issues and inflammatory intestinal conditions, treat depression, help remedy eye disorders and help to prevent neurodegenerative diseases such as MS, Parkinson’s Alzheimer’s disease. Most of the health benefits of fish oil can be attributed to the presence of the omega 3 fatty acids Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) that provides nutrients important for proper fetal development including the eyes, brain and nervous system and Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) that provides the primary anti-inflammatory, immune system boosting and platelet aggregation inhibiting properties. Contaminants in Fish Oil Fish oils can contain numerous different contaminants, however the ones most focused on include PCB’s, mercury and dioxin. These are generally the result of industrial pollutants that are directly discharged into waterways or washed into our oceans due to rainfall via runoff or by cleaning the air from this particulate pollution as it rains. A recent study provided some good news when it found that the majority of fish oil products tested contained only very low levels of mercury, ranging from one to six parts per billion per serving. That range is far below the upper safety limit of 100 parts per billion set by the Global Organization for EPA and DHA Omega-3s, or GOED, an industry trade group. What this means is that taking a fish oil supplement can be safer than eating the fish itself as companies use techniques such as molecular distillation to cleanse fish oil of impurities. However, this “cleansing” of fish oil can have its own drawbacks. That is because the EPA and DHA in fish oil are delicate, polyunsaturated oils that go rancid very quickly creating potentially harmful free-radicals when exposed to heat, light or oxygen. This is why it is so important that fish oil contains antioxidants like vitamin E or rosemary extract. Because of this potential for rancidity you should check something called the “peroxide value” on the fish oil’s Certificate of Analysis. This is a measure of rancidity reactions in the oil that have occurred during processing and/or storage and should be less than 5 meq/kg. Due to distillation you should also make sure that the fish oil you purchase is in its natural triglyceride form because that is how it is found in nature. This issue occurs because during the distillation process, in order to to purify the oil, it is necessary to add ethanol (an industrial alcohol) to form a synthetic substrate. In a vacuum, the mix is then distilled and the result is a concentrated omega-3 ethyl ester solution. The benefit is a pure fish oil, and the ability to concentrate the healthy omega-3’s like DHA and EPA. This is why almost all of the “highly concentrated” fish oils are in the ester form. Unfortunately, research is now showing that although this form of fish oil can yield higher concentrations of omega-3s, it is not absorbed nearly as well as natural fish oil. Manufacturers can in fact convert the omega-3 concentrated ester form back into the healthy triglyceride form, but most manufacturers do NOT do this because the costs are significantly higher.< Why Do Contaminants Accumulate in Fish? The consumption of fish is by far the most significant source of ingestion-related mercury exposure in humans and animals. Mercury is present in only very small concentrations in seawater. However, it is absorbed, usually as methyl mercury, by algae at the start of the food chain. This algae is then eaten by fish and other organisms higher in the food chain. Fish efficiently absorb methyl mercury, but only very slowly excrete it so mercury will accumulate in tissue, which is called bioaccumulation. The older that such fish become, the more mercury they may have absorbed. Anything that eats these fish also consumes the higher level of mercury that the fish have accumulated. This process explains why predatory fish such as swordfish and birds like ospreys and eagles have higher concentrations of mercury in their tissue than could be accounted for by direct exposure alone. Species on the food chain can amass body concentrations of mercury up to ten times higher than the species they consume. This process is called biomagnification. For example, herring contains mercury levels at about 0.1 parts per million, while shark contains mercury levels greater than 1 part per million. That is why in the past we have always recommended fish oils from smaller fish like sardine and anchovies that are closer to the beginning of the food chain. Is Fish Oil Necessary for my Dog or Cat’s Diet? When people typically talk about fish oil they are referring to the content of the omega 3 fatty acids EPA and DHA. So the answer to the above question would be no, a healthy dog or cat does not require supplementation with fish oil. DHA is important for proper brain, nervous system and eye development. Fortunately, nature take cares are of this by increasing DHA production in the mother that is transferred to puppies and kittens during pregnancy and lactation. As I mentioned previously DHA supplementation is not necessary, however it can be beneficial for pregnant females and also to help maintain the health of the eyes, brain and nervous system to treat various imbalances or weaknesses in this tissue. As far as EPA goes, this fatty acid has anti-inflammatory benefits that will be helpful for issues like arthritis, autoimmune conditions, allergies and so on. This does not need to be supplemented in healthy animals because they can derive what they need from a healthy diet that includes grass fed meats, free-range eggs, organ meats, organic greens and some fish. You may notice that I specifically said a “healthy” diet. That is because if you feed a typical pet food that uses factory farmed meat that is finished on feed lots, low-quality farm-raised fish, flours and grains, factory farmed eggs (well you get the picture), you will be feeding your canine or feline a diet that has an unhealthy, or pro-inflammatory, ratio of omega 6 to omega 3. In this case you can change the diet over to healthier foods or include fish oil supplementation in your pet’s diet. Are There Alternatives to Fish Oil? Since dogs and cats do not convert the essential omega 3 fatty acid alpha linolenic acid to EPA and DHA efficiently, supplementing your dog with oils like flax seed, hemp seed, chia seed and other similar oils will not do the trick. Even though those other oils do have various health benefits, fish oil has been the primary provider of the beneficial omega 3 fatty acids EPA and DHA up until recently. We have always been a proponent of algae for all their important nutrients, but they have suffered from the same problems as fish oil and that is pollutants. That was until we found BioPreparation, which is a balanced blend of four algae that is grown in indoor bioreactors where the environment can be isolated from outdoor pollutants. While these algae are a great source of fatty acids they are not a concentrated source. Fortunately, with all the issues related to sustainability and pollution, algae has started to be grown indoors for the purpose of providing a cleaner, more sustainable source of the omega 3 fatty acids EPA and DHA. This is wonderful news and makes algae oil the only real alternative to fish oil that is both less polluted and highly sustainable. In Conclusion Well, is fish oil good for your dog or cat? From what we discussed above, it really depends. It can be in the case of various disorders that can benefit from the addition of EPA and DHA, the omega 3 fatty acids found in fish oil. However, it depends strongly on the quality of the fish oil you decide to use in your supplement regimen. If you choose the cheapest fish oil, without doing further research on that brand, you may be doing more harm than good. For healthy dogs and cats fish oil is really not necessary, especially when you are feeding healthier grass fed foods naturally higher in omega 3 fatty acids. Though, as mentioned previously, if you feed a typical store bought brand of kibble pet food, your canine or feline could benefit from the increase in omega 3 fatty acids from fish oil. However, the issues of quality and sustainability will be spurring us to make the transition to obtaining our EPA and DHA from algae oil for ourselves and our customers in the future. References Health benefits of fish oil. Retrieved from https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/oils/health-benefits-of-fish-oil.html Mercury in fish. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_in_fish< Kresser, C. The definitive fish oil buyers guide. Retrieved from http://chriskresser.com/the-definitive-fish-oil-buyers-guide/

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Whole Foods vs Synthetic Vitamins

Whole Foods vs Synthetic Vitamins

We are whole food proponents and have been for quite some time... but weren’t always. For a period of time, like most people, our supplement regimen consisted of a popular multivitamin supplement along with a variety of additional supplements that were “in the news”. I was quite happy with that regimen until I started to educate myself and realize that those educational articles in the monthly “health” magazine were not truly educational articles written for my benefit, but instead primarily advertisements. My epiphany was not overnight, but instead a journey combining education, common sense and personal experience that I applied to the health of not only myself and my wife but to our animals as well. Quite simply, I came to understand that animal biology has never evolved to accept synthetic vitamins no matter how much vitamin and food manufactures try to convince us otherwise. That is why The Pet Health and Nutrition Center supplements and remedies focus on organic, whole foods and always will. The success we have with both animals and their people is quite rewarding, yet even we are sometimes pleasantly surprised with the simplicity in which chronic conditions are alleviated. How the Body Utilizes Nutrients Whole foods go through three kinds of processing in the body. First there is digestion, during which food is transformed into substances that can be utilized by cells for energy. Next, these digested substances are absorbed by the body when food moves from the intestines into the blood. Lastly, metabolism occurs when food substances are used as energy sources or building blocks for other purposes needed by the body. Bodily processes are quite complex, yet extremely efficient, and you can’t help but see the majesty of this creation, our body, that we take so much for granted on a daily basis. However, as great as our capacity to utilize natural nutrients from food is, organisms lack the capacity to properly utilize synthetic nutrients derived from chemical processing. A body experiences difficulty trying to regulate the absorption of synthetic vitamins and optimize their levels and this inability to reach homeostasis, or balance, so easily accomplished with whole foods, can have very serious short and long term consequences. In reality, synthetic vitamins are received by the body similarly to pharmaceutical drugs, and like all drugs they can potentially disrupt normal metabolic functions often with devastating side effects. To get all of the healthy, disease-fighting benefits from what we eat, or feed to our dogs and cats, it’s best to obtain nutrients from whole foods rather than from synthetic substitutes. After this recent decades long vitamin craze, more and more studies indicate that an animal’s body utilizes nutrients from whole foods better and that the desire by manufacturers to replace real nutrients with cheaper synthetic ones in their processed human and pet foods is not living up to the hype. For instance, a recent study from Oregon State University found that an important phytochemical in broccoli and other similar veggies is poorly absorbed and much less beneficial when isolated and taken in supplement form and this study is far from alone in its conclusion. "The whole nutrient complex is greater than the sum of its parts." -Dr. Royal Lee Yellow Urine, Excesses and Toxins It is really weird, but when I was younger and utilized synthetic vitamin supplements I remember somehow feeling like I was doing a good thing when my urine turned bright yellow within a very short time of taking a supplement. I viewed it like “wow, this thing must really be working!”. Of course now I realize that I was just urinating out the majority of what I paid for. Did you ever notice the bright color of your urine or your pet’s urine after taking a synthetic vitamin supplement or just from all those synthetic vitamins found in commercial pet foods? Urine should be clear to straw colored, never yellow. Yellow urine is a sign of dehydration or the body attempting to rid itself of excesses or potentially a more serious medical condition. What is amazing is that I can take a tablespoon of bee pollen, loaded with bright yellow plant pigments and B vitamins and my urine will never turn yellow nor will that of my dogs. Yet, one tiny little commercial multivitamin and there it is - bright yellow urine that is the consequence of my liver and kidneys working overtime to remove excess synthetic chemicals. All foods nowadays can contain some potentially toxic substances since there are many present in our environment. Yet, these toxins are often negated by the presence of natural compounds found in healthy, whole foods. For example, the nitrates found in carrots can be toxic at high doses. However, nitrates are not concentrated in carrots and they are neutralized by the vitamin C also found in carrots - the benefits of the synergy of whole foods. This can not be said about synthetic substances which are typically isolated away from other synergistic substances they would be found alongside in nature. This talk of toxins brings up a slightly disturbing personal story. Recently, in the news there was a story concerning a large, popular vitamin retailer whose multivitamins were independently tested. This testing indicated rather high levels of lead, far in excess of what are considered acceptable levels. I thought to myself how sorry I felt for those people happily taking their synthetic multivitamin supplement and consuming large amounts of lead at the same time, all the while thinking that they are doing the right thing for their health. I was feeling quite above the fray until I remembered that years ago I took the same multivitamin supplement and gave one to my wife as well. Lots of Money to be Made in Supplements Problems usually begin to arise when money comes into play and the supplement industry is no exception. You see, there isn’t much money in an apple per se, but there is tremendous amounts of money if you can convince people that the most talked about nutrients found in apples are found in this great new supplement and it is so much better than eating an apple... Just think of the advantages - mass produced synthetic substances (pennies), shelf life (years), transportation costs (a fraction of shipping fresh, whole foods) and all too often you can take up most of a bottle with cheap fillers. This all leads to HUGE profits for large supplement manufacturers who can then afford to take out full page advertisements lauding the latest new fad and telling you it is the same, or better, than eating the real thing or feeding your dog or cat a whole food diet. Toxicity Side Effects of Excess Fat Soluble Vitamins For years we have all been aware of one story or another indicating the dangers of certain vitamins. I remember 15 or 20 years ago when the stories about the harmful effects of beta-carotene began to come out in relation to lung cancer. At the time I wasn’t sure if that meant I shouldn’t eat so many carrots or other foods that contained beta-carotene. Of course, in time I began to make the distinction between synthetic beta-carotene and that found in whole foods. I have recently become alarmed at the increasing usage of vitamin D in large doses. Research has been showing that the body does not utilize the vitamin D obtained through supplements as it does that obtained from whole foods or sunshine. More recently I read a study that indicated that supplementing with higher doses of vitamin D is now being associated with damage to the heart. Below are some more potential dangers related to supplementing with synthetic vitamins: Vitamin A: abdominal pain, vomiting, headache, lethargy, eczema, patchy hair loss, edema, anemia, respiratory tract infection, chronic liver disease Vitamin E: allergic reaction, breathing impairments, swelling of the tongue, fatigue, headache, nausea, blurred vision, excessive bleeding (anticoagulation due to inhibition of vitamin K), increased oxidative stress, increased hypertension, decreased life span Vitamin K: supplementation with a synthetic form of vitamin K Menadione has been associated with liver damage. Some reports indicate a significant association between high intramuscular levels of vitamin K and cancer. Vitamin D: even though vitamin D poisoning is rare, toxicity can occur under certain medical conditions such as primary hyperparathyroidism, tuberculosis and lymphoma. Note that vitamin D is completely safe when produced by the body itself through UV sunlight exposure. As for the water soluble vitamins, these have been generally considered safe simply because water soluble vitamins are not stored by the body. Since any excess of water soluble vitamins is excreted in the urine, they presumably can't accumulate in toxic levels and therefore are regarded as safe. However, an article in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition (Vol. 87, No. 1, 142-149, January 2008) examining the effect of vitamin C on training efficiency in animals and humans, reveals that supplementation with vitamin C ascorbate devastates muscle, causing impairment in mitochondrial function, loss of endurance, and inhibition of the body's own antioxidant enzymes superoxide dimutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxide. In other words, synthetic vitamin C at certain levels promotes oxidative damage in the body instead of performing as an antioxidant as promoted. In addition to toxicity issues discussed above, there is another danger of excess with synthetic vitamins. When too much of any particular vitamin is taken, it tends to upset the balance of natural vitamin metabolism and can lead to a deficiency of other vitamins. This has been clearly demonstrated in the case of the various members of vitamin B complex. For example, an excess of certain B factors, such as thiamine [vitamin B1], has been found to produce compensatory deficiency of other factors, such as pyroxidine [vitamin B6]. This shows why it is much better to use the entire vitamin B complex, as provided by natural, whole food sources of the vitamin. In Conclusion Synthetic supplements are often processed at high temperatures, contain residual petroleum derived chemical solvents (such as benzene - a potent carcinogen) and tablets are often coated with methylene chloride another carcinogenic material. According to Dr. Zoltan P. Rona, M.D., “Although most healthy people will have no obvious side effects from ingesting small amounts of toxins found in cheap vitamins, the long term consequences of continuous, daily intake are potentially dangerous. Over 7% of the population displays sensitivity to these chemicals.” Could the above pertain to you or your dog or cat? Could the processed food you feed your family or pets fortified with synthetic vitamins to make up for its lack of nutrition be affecting your family’s health? There is a reason that we highly recommend whole food diets and natural, whole food supplementation - they are safer and much healthier for your family! References Pitchford, P. (2002). Healing with whole foods: Asian traditions and modern nutrition (3rd ed.). Berkeley, CA: North Atlantic Books. Thibodeau, G.A., & Patton, K.T. (2008). Structure & function of the body. St. Louis, MO: Mosby. Vitamin poisoning: are we destroying our health with hi-potency synthetic vitamins? Retrieved from https://www.organicconsumers.org/news/vitamin-poisoning-are-we-destroying-our-health-hi-potency-synthetic-vitamins Natural vitamins vs synthetic vitamins - beware of studies. Retrieved from http://www.bodyandsoulreconnection.com/natural-vitamins-vs-synthetic-vitamins-beware-of-studies/ Lee, R. The truth about vitamins. Retrieved from http://www.drroyallee.com/the_truth_about_vitamins.html

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